The Arles Foodie Guide for foodies who love French cuisine

It’s been a while since I’ve done a foodie guide, so creating the Arles Foodie Guide felt a bit surreal for me. The reason the guides have been slower lately is attributed to several factors. When the Covid restrictions were lifted, we certainly DID start to dine out again and do the occasional standalone restaurant review (from later in 2022 to 2025). That said, none of our trips were extensive enough (or food-focused enough) to warrant a foodie guide. Secondly, I lost my taste from Covid over the winter of last year.

For a foodie, this was devastating. I tried to review two restaurants during that time and for obvious reasons, I didn’t dine alone.  I realized as I asked for textures and flavors from my colleagues that they were missing  half of what I’d normally pick up in a bite. I then realized that not everyone’s palettes are the same. It’s no wonder that when I took a bite out of an Artisan chocolate on the streets of Paris, I was having a food orgasm while people looked on wondering, “What am I missing?” This happened often btw, wherever I traveled and dined.

I love food and I mean love, love, love food. I could get lost in a pate for hours, savor a cheese board with wine with the attention of a baby seeing his toes for the first time and marvel at a simple ice cream with basil and olive oil for days. I can still remember how I felt when I dined at my first Michelin star restaurant — I died and went to heaven and never wanted to return. There’s much more to write about my loss of taste, which I’ll do in a separate blog post, but for now, let’s just say that after my Darshan experience in Ponteves on the last night of our retreat, something happened. My intention that was through the energy work that my taste returned and that’s precisely what happened. Well, sorta.

The next day, I could start to taste things I couldn’t before, but it wasn’t fully back, nor were the tastes as vivid as I remember. That said, it was enough to put a giant smile on my face, for there were plenty of tasting experiences to come after leaving the retreat house. Salty, bitter, sour and some sweet had returned and it was enough for me to say “thank you, thank you,” and trust that in time, the rest of my taste buds will light up once again. It’s been nearly a year.

Below is my first foodie guide since this tragic taste loss incident and it certainly won’t be my last. Welcome to the flavors of Arles, France, which was one of our favorite stops on our recent trip. Its antiquity, authenticity, charm and deep history added to the experience as did the rustic flavors of the cuisine here, where bull something is on nearly every menu. 

Restaurant Le Plaza-La Paillotte

It’s difficult to say whether we favored Le Plaza-La Paillotte or Le Galoubet (below), both nestled close to each other along the same Rue du Dr. Fanton that runs along the Rhône River. We stayed on one side of the Rhône and Rue du Dr. Fanton is one of the first alleys (this is a more appropriate description than street) you discover as you make your way down the stairs from the bridge on the other side.

The river flows through the city, which was a major trading port in Roman times, and today it remains an important part of the city’s landscape and history. It adds to the charm of the cafes and restaurants that you’ll find on this alley, which is a bit hidden from one of Arles’ main bustling square a few blocks away.

Both exude old Europe style, have mesmerizing ambiance (inside and out) and the service was fabulous in both places. The food, too, was out of this world. As you walk past Le Plaza-La Paillotte, especially during the day, it is quite unassuming. 

Once inside however, you feel as if you’ve walked into a catacomb of sorts, cozied up in your own cave, secluded from the noise and chaos of the outside world for one amazing bite after another.

To say that this place is located in the ancient center of Arles is an understatement. The alleys and stone buildings look almost untouched from the Medieval Ages. The restaurant’s rooms have exposed stone walls of ceilings with wooden beams; however, the decor is centered around bullfighting, which btw, is a big thing in the area (see our feature article on Arles and the fixation on bulls). Bull was even on the menu and on many restaurant menus in Arles.

Outside, a beautiful shady terrace embraces pops of color from pink laurel and the smells of olive, rosemary and thyme. Inside, you’ll find aromas of bull stew, autumn soups like rockfish soup with toasted bread and cheese or duck risotto.

The chef, who has owned the restaurant since 2002, changes the menu according to the seasons: two menus, formulas, à la carte dishes and also a menu and lunch special.

Like many restaurants in France, they offer a set menu set by chef Stephane Bognier (a starter, main course and dessert (or cheese) for 39€ or a starter and main (35€ or a main and dessert for 33€ . 

We tried the Eggplant Flan with a dreamy tomato and basic sauce as an appetizer, which they call entrees in France. It was not what we expected, but that holds true for many dishes in Provence, even at low-key basic eateries. It’s much harder to judge a book by its cover when it comes to food in France, for as my friend Jeanine likes to say, “you can’t get a bad meal in France.” We didn’t find that to be a sweeping case; but she’s probably right about the word “bad” because at best, it might be disappointing but never quite “bad.”

You see, food is too important to the French and I’d argue, to most Europeans, although there are pockets where liquor, dancing and nightlife reigns over the value of great food. Below, we are in stage one of heaven as our appetizers arrived.

The Eggplant Flan at Le Plaza-La Paillotte

It was not a cold evening, but a typical fall one, so we opted to stay inside even though heat lamps would have done the trick. The ambiance is too funky in this bull-centered eatery along Dr. Fanton and we loved the cave-like feel. Anthony went for the slow-cooked Camargue bull stew, which they simmered with white wine and rice from the region. You can also get a full grilled bull rib with potatoes and veggies (roughly 30€) or one of their delicious Chef’s Salads for those who want to opt for something lighter or veggies only.

Above and below, the slow-cooked Camargue Bull Stew

+33 4 90 93 18 11

Le Galoubet 

A stone’s throw from La Plaza La-Paillotte you’ll find Le Galoubet, a recommended favorite by locals. It is a popular bistro known for its charming vine-covered pergola terrace. The self-taught chef Celine Arribart offers contemporary French bistro cuisine with a daily changing prix-fixe menu based on market-driven ingredients. (a tad pricier than its neighbor but only marginally so).

Inside and outside dining are equally charming and the place always seems to be bustling in the evenings — we had to make a reservation. It was very dark for photos btw and we learned that reservations are a must. They seem to regularly turn people away, so either show up when they first open and promise to be out before their first reservation or call ahead. Below, the Salmon main course (with radishes) and the Burrata and Tomato appetizer.

Above, salmon with radishes and garnished with parsley and below, a Burrata and Tomato salad. Credit: restaurant.

Like I said, it was dark for food photos but it didn’t mean we enjoyed our meals less.  They offered a Ratatouille with Ham as an appetizer, or you can order a Roquette et Epinards with tomato confites and parmesan.

Sardine lover? They serve them with gaspacho — yes, really. For mains, they offer a duck with carrots (duck has been a long time favorite of French cuisine for quite some time), Tuna with tomato cherries or a Beef in a Morille sauce (morels). For example, croûte aux morilles is a traditional dish from the French region of Franche-Comté. It consists of a piece of toasted bread paired with morel mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Sometimes, the dish is served in a puff pastry casing as well.

DETAILS:

Le Galoubet

18 Rue du Dr. Fanton

13200 Arles, France

Le Gibolin

This Arles eatery is known for its laid-back, casual vibe and a hot spot for natural food and wines at reasonable prices. They tout themselves as a farm-to-table restaurant with a Bib Gourmand, serving simple, generous market cuisine, and a selection of natural and biodynamic wine.

Above and below. Credit: Le Gibolin Restaurant.

A few exquisite examples of what makes this place worth a call out:  Carpaccio of calf’s head topped with a ravigote sauce, the skate wing à la grenobloise with glazed radishes and their chocolate mousse which they make with black olives and fleur de sel — yes, really.  Like many French restaurants with fabulous food, oftentimes the ambiance is pretty understated and this one is no exception.

Credit: Le Gibolin Restaurant.

Les Domaines Qui Montent

Along one of the main drags in Arles, you’ll find Les Domaines Qui Montent, which looks like a brasserie from the street, but in truth, they tout themselves as a wine cellar-delicatessen-restaurant and it lives up to that label. We started outside at a table for two along the street, hidden by just enough bushes to feel cut off from the honking horns. It’s charming enough and we would have stayed outside had the sun not been so hot since it’s a great spot to people watch (yup, it’s one of those locations).

Inside has a totally different vibe but there’s so much wine up against the wall, they certainly want to remind you that they are part wine cellar, art restaurant. This btw, is a good thing, because it means great choices on the menu, even for lunch, which is when we experienced the restaurant.

It’s still charming inside, but it presents more of a modern motif throughout with a few rustic accents, like wine barrels that house wines and jams. Lest not forget the French-style prints. They’re known for their Charcuterie and Cheese platter to share, which we very well may have tried, had it not been for the Burgundy Snails and the Frog Legs with Parsley Butter on the menu (I had to order the latter — they were super garlicky – love, love, love). For something a little lighter, they also offered a Tuna Tataki with yuzu, soy sauce and sesame.

The Frog Legs at Les Domaines Qui Montent

The Bobosse Pate en Croute Maison was also delicious and makes for a great appetizer any time of day. Depending on the weather, if you’d like to opt for something a little lighter, they have a divine Watermelon Salad on the menu, which they serve in a fairly traditional way . . . with feta, cucumber, tomatoes and mint. Yum!

Pate at Les Domaines Qui Montent

Some of their mains include Beef Tartare with fries and salad (oh so francais), Provencal Stuffed Veggies with Camargue red rice and veggies, Grilled Octopus with Aioli Sauce and red rice, the Rib Steak or the Lamb Shank, which is a bit heavier, as they serve it with thyme gravy and mashed potatoes. Below is the octopus and stuffed vegetables (heavenly, right?) And, they tasted as good as they look.

Above, the Grilled Octopus and below, the Provencal Stuffed Vegetables at Les Domaines Qui Montent

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention their desserts. As always, you can get a cheese platter or go for something sweet like ice cream, creme brulee, or chocolate fondant.

Creme Brulee (above) and Chocolate Fondant (below)

Arles Foodie Guide — Chocolate anyone?

What I didn’t realize until after I left is that you can choose a bottle from their cellar for 10€ — not sure how they can offer so many at that price, but that’s a major plus and worth knowing if you visit. Bravo!

DETAILS:

Les Domaines Qui Montent

18 Rue du Dr. Fanton

13200 Arles, France

Le Cochon Qui Fume

This culinary oasis in the heart of Arles‘ historic center offers Italo-Corsican flavors, where each dish tells a story of terroir and tradition. As food enthusiasts, the chefs at Le Cochon Qui Fume serve authentic gastronomic experiences using local farmers produce, meat and cheese.

Dining at Le Cochon Qui Fume. Credit: Le Cochon Qui Fume Restaurant.

At Le Cochon Qui Fume (aka the Smoking Pig), there’s a great wine selection as well, from local French wines to options from around the world. In their words, “Our cellar will satisfy even the most discerning palates.” There are sommeliers on-site to guide you through pairing for an ultimate sensory experience. 

The ambiance is hip, bright and upbeat — you might even say cheery.

DETAILS:

Páou Restaurant

This charming place feels family-owned and run. Charming and small, but understated and basic, but with great food and a positive reputation.

Above and below Páou, Credit Páou Restaurant.

Not atypical, their menu is listed on a blackboard — it’s small, but traditional and authentic.

Look at the conventional dishes as an example and the hearty but like “grandma” makes soup — flavorful and delish.

Arles Foodie Guide – Food image credit: Paou

DETAILS

Le Páou Restaurant 

22 Place Paul Doumer

13200 Arles, France

09.86.77.25.64 | https://www.paou-arles.fr/

El Paseo (Tapas)

I’m including El Paseo because we dined there. Truth be told, I love tapas restaurants even though they can be a disappointment if the size is small for the price point or the options are scarce. In this case, both were true.  

Its ideal location makes it an easy stop for many and I think this is why its so often crowded. Its tucked in an alleyway that connects the antiquated and dark Rue du Dr. Fanton which I mentioned at the start of this article, and one of the main squares in Arles known for restaurants and cafes. We decided to try it one evening because a) we weren’t that hungry and didn’t want a prix fix option b) we were tired and didn’t have the energy to trek back up to one of the larger squares and c) we were curious. On the surface, it looks delicious enough right? Below are some of the tapas options we tried that late fall evening.

My issue with 95% of them is that they were either cold or deep fried, so I had few options. Even the mussels and chickpea tapas, which I thought might be hot, were cold. And so, I savored the meatballs, which were actually flavorful and filling. I could have left the rest of them — the food just isn’t that good. The vibe, on the other hand, is kinda cool with its bull theme, but it wasn’t enough to mitigate my disappointment in the food. The tables are quite small and they didn’t take a credit card, so we had to walk 12-14 minutes to an ATM and back on a night we were already exhausted. We won’t return.

Arles Foodie Guide — The El Paseo Tapas Bar

DETAILS

El Paseo Restaurant 

4 Rue des Thermes

13200 Arles   

The Market

While no doubt, I’ve missed some restaurant gems, perhaps down an alleyway we missed or in one of the main more populated squares. As a rule, we tend to focus on drinks, coffee and sweets in the main squares since they’re often over crowded and tend to be more expensive and the food rarely lives up to the price increase. We prefer off-the-beaten path spots.

I’d call Arles a foodie city although many French people may disagree with me. Sure, it doesn’t have the glamour of Nice and other parts of the Riviera, nor is it the bustling much larger Aix-en-Provence with its countless cafes and restaurants, but it does have a diversity of options and you won’t go hungry. We did try to get a crepe two separate evenings but the only two options were both closed.

Lastly, I must mention their Saturday market, because it’s the largest one in all of Provence. Luckily, we were there for their weekly market, which is massive compared to every other market we experienced in Provence and the Alpes (we went to about seven before we hit Arles). This bazaar of sorts is a large hub of street stalls extending as far as 2.5 km selling fresh produce, crafts, jams, jellies, cheese, savory items, clothes, bags, hats, artisan wood objects and more.

What is most remarkable is the size of the savory plated options, such as their sauteed shrimp, chicken, sausage and vegetables that they cooked on the largest woks I’ve ever seen. One of the other things I’ll note is that the size of the cheese blocks and the variety of mushrooms were both the most extensive of any other market we visited in Provence. Two thumbs up! I wished we had more time here.

Arles Foodie Guide — prawns anyone?

Arles Foodie Guide — sauteed fish and chicken at the market

The Arles market

Truly, there isn’t anything you can’t find at this market, including spices, olive oils, vinegars, sausage, balsamic, soaps, and the infamous Provence sea salt.

Arles Foodie Guide: Mushrooms at the local market in Arles

Arles Foodie Guide — Cheese at the local market in Arles

DETAILS

The Weekend Arles Market (Saturdays)

8 Bd des Lices

13200 Arles  

Renee Blodgett is the founder of We Blog the World. The site combines the magic of an online culture and travel magazine with a global blog network and has contributors from every continent in the world. Having lived in 10 countries and explored over 90, she is an avid traveler, and a lover, observer and participant in cultural diversity. She is also the founder of the Magdalene Collection, a jewelry line dedicated to women’s unsung voices and stories, and the award-winning author of the bestselling book Magdalene’s Journey

She is founder of Blue Soul Media and co-founder of Blue Soul Earth as well as the producer and host of the award-winning Blue Soul CHATS podcast, that bridges science, technology and spirituality. Renee also founded Magic Sauce Media, a new media services consultancy focused on viral marketing, social media, branding, events and PR. For over 20 years, she has helped companies from 12 countries get traction in the market. Known for her global and organic approach to product and corporate launches, Renee practices what she pitches and as an active user of social media, she helps clients navigate digital waters from around the world. Renee has been blogging for over 16 years and regularly writes on her personal blog Down the Avenue, Huffington Post, BlogHer, We Blog the World and other sites. She was ranked #12 Social Media Influencer by Forbes Magazine and is listed as a new media influencer and game changer on various sites and books on the new media revolution. In 2013, she was listed as the 6th most influential woman in social media by Forbes Magazine on a Top 20 List.

Her passion for art, storytelling and photography led to the launch of Magic Sauce Photography, which is a visual extension of her writing, the result of which has led to producing six photo books: Galapagos Islands, London, South Africa, Rome, Urbanization and Ecuador.

Renee is also the co-founder of Traveling Geeks, an initiative that brings entrepreneurs, thought leaders, bloggers, creators, curators and influencers to other countries to share and learn from peers, governments, corporations, and the general public in order to educate, share, evaluate, and promote innovative technologies.