Tucked into Sri Lanka’s misty central highlands, Kandy remains the country’s cultural and spiritual heart. Once the final capital of the island’s independent kingdom, it still draws pilgrims to the Temple of the Tooth, where a sacred dental relic of the Buddha himself is said to be kept.
The city of Kandy is an intoxicating blend of colonial echoes, ancient rituals, and street life that feels unmistakably Sri Lankan. Monks chatting on mobile phones jostle with hawkers selling vegetables picked that morning, while tuk-tuks buzz around them like caffeinated bees. Kandy is chaotic, charming, and utterly compelling.
Kandy also makes a superb base for exploring the wider region. Hikers can escape into the misty Knuckles Mountains for rainforest trails and sweeping views, or take a day trip north to the ancient fortress of Sigiriya, rising sheer from the plains like a mythical folktale. Food lovers can join cooking classes to perfect coconut sambol and the elusive spice balance that makes a curry sing while cultural performances reveal the region’s vibrant music and dance traditions.
Kandy might not charm you at first glance, but give it two days (and this Kandy travel guide) and you’ll be under its spell, understanding exactly why it remains the soul of Sri Lanka’s highlands.
Let’s tuck into the best things to do in Kandy, shall we?
When to visit Kandy, Sri Lanka
Kandy’s mild hill-country climate makes it pleasant year-round. The best time to visit Kandy is December to April,when days are dry and skies clear, but we visited in September and found it relatively cool and pleasant. August brings the spectacular Esala Perahera festival, think elephants in elaborate costumes and streets alive with drums and dancers. It’s unforgettable, if extremely crowded.
Regardless of when you visit, keep a light waterproof or extra layer handy; mountain weather can – and does – turn in minutes.
Credit/debit card acceptance is growing in Sri Lanka but you’d be well advised to have a supply of local currency (rupees – LKR) with you. ATMs are plentiful in Kandy, money changers less so.
Getting to Kandy, Sri Lanka
· By train: The scenic ride from Colombo (about four hours) or Nuwara Eliya (also four) ranks among Asia’s great rail journeys. Sit on the right side from Colombo or left from Nuwara Eliya for the best views. Tickets are released 30 days ahead via Sri Lanka Railways, booking ahead is sensible.
· By car: Around 3½ hours from Colombo or 2½ from Sigiriya. Allow extra time for hairpin bends and inevitable photo stops. Hiring a private driver is surprisingly affordable – around $700 for two weeks – and ideal for couples or small groups wanting stress-free travel. You can still add a train journey without the hassle of dragging suitcases on and off.
· Bus: By far the cheapest way to travel, with bus journeys from Colombo starting at LKR 200. Seek out air conditioning ‘super luxury’ buses. Minibuses also go direct from Colombo airport.
Getting Around Kandy, Sri Lanka
· Most of Kandy’s highlights: the Temple of the Tooth, Central Market, and lakeside hotels, are within easy walking distance of lakeside or central hotels.
· For longer hops, including to Kandy Lake Club, download PickMe, Sri Lanka’s ride-hailing app. It offers cars, tuk-tuks, and bikes and is reliable and rapid. Payments are usually in cash, so keep small notes (LKR 100 and 200) handy; drivers rarely carry change.
Where To Stay in Kandy, Sri Lanka
· Hotels dotted around the lakeside offer great views and easy access to the city (we stayed at SWP Ecolodge (c. $65 per night) which had excellent breakfast and comfortable rooms).
· Hillside guesthouses are quieter and slightly cheaper – Beauty Hills (c. $50 per night) gets rave reviewed for its rooms and views but will require regular Pickme journeys into the city.
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1. Visit the Temple of the Tooth
Kandy’s Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites on the planet and one of the best things to do in Kandy. The temple houses a relic said to be the Buddha’s tooth, brought to Sri Lanka in the 4th century AD. Every day, pilgrims arrive bearing striking purple lotus flowers (stalls around the temple sell them if you want to join) and incense, and the rhythmic drumming of the puja ceremonies fills the air. Even for non-believers, it’s a sight (and sound) to behold.
You can’t see the relic itself, it’s encased in a series of ornate gold caskets, hidden from view. The experience lies in the ritual: the steady flow of worshippers, the scent of incense, the murals and carvings that trace Kandy’s proud history as both Buddhist stronghold and independent kingdom until 1815.
Dress modestly (cover legs and shoulders), remove your shoes, and visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the largest crowds. Entry is 2,000 LKR, and guided tours (which often include other sites around Kandy) are well worth it to decode the symbolism and ritual before your eyes.
Even for non-Buddhists, it’s a serene and fascinating glimpse into the spiritual heart of Sri Lanka.
2. Hike in the Knuckles Mountain Range
Just an hour’s drive from Kandy lies a world that feels far more remote. If you love hiking and outdoor adventure this is absolutely one of the best things to do in Kandy.
The Knuckles Mountain Range, named by the Victorians for its resemblance to a clenched fist, offers cool air, cloud forests, and hiking trails winding through tea estates and tiny villages.
Hiking here must be done with a local guide (we used Nipuna Hiking, who were excellent). Your guide will not only steer you through the unmarked trails but also point out the astonishing variety of plants, fruits, and spices that make this UNESCO-listed region one of Sri Lanka’s most biodiverse. In three hours, we spotted – and sampled – mango, nutmeg, three types of bananas, pepper, turmeric, aubergine, cocoa, chilli, tamarind, passion fruit, soursop, coffee, and at least three kinds of beans. You’ll never find a tastier hike.
Trails range from gentle day walks to multi-day treks with overnight stays in eco-lodges or homestays. Most guides provide leech socks and disinfectant spray – a less than subtle hint at who else enjoys the climate. Expect all four seasons in a single afternoon, and pack your waterproofs accordingly.
3. See a Cultural Dance Show at Kandy Lake Club
Kandy’s rich history is distilled into an hour-long crash course every night at the Kandy Lake Club above the city. It’s unquestionably touristy but it’s informative, joyous and downright fun in equal measure
Drummers pound out hypnotic rhythms as dancers in elaborate headdresses perform rituals once reserved for royal courts and temples. The agility and skill of the performers – not to mention the elaborate costumes – is remarkable and visitors are provided with an interpretation sheet to explain exactly what you’re watching and its cultural significance.
Performances include dances to drive out evil spirits, offerings to local deities and stylised battles between eagles and cobras – miniature versions of the masks used by performers are some of the most eye-catching Sri Lankan souvenirs
The fire-walking finale – barefoot men crossing glowing embers – feels an appropriate climax, thankfully without audience participation.
Book online (4,500 LKR) in advance to get a decent seat near the stage or just pay on the door. It’s about a 30-minute walk uphill from the city centre, we used a Pickme tuk-tuk who was only too happy to return at the end of the show to pick us up. Drinks and snacks available through a (surprisingly efficient) at-seat ordering service.
4. Join a Sri Lankan Cooking Class
Taking a cooking class in Kandy is one of the best ways to understand the vibrant, complex and deeply regional flavours of Sri Lanka and take some of its secrets home. There are a host of tours offered online – we did an evening class, booked via Viator, and would highly recommend. Cost starts from around $35-40 per person.
Classes usually begin with a trip to Kandy’s Central Market [PHOTOS 10-11], a chaotic two-storey jumble of fruit, vegetables, and spice stalls. Vendors stand above their produce like medieval town criers, shouting prices that seem absurdly low…until you remember most of it is grown within an hour of the city. The upper floor, a relative pocket of calm, is also one of the best spots in Sri Lanka for souvenir shopping. Bring your best haggling face.
Once the shopping’s done, you’ll head to a home in the hills above Kandy, where the kitchen, or open-air pavilion, is thick with the scent of cardamom and curry leaves. Under the watchful eye of a Sri Lankan matriarch (who will leave you in no doubt who’s in charge), you’ll learn to prepare staples like dhal curry, coconut sambol, and brinjal moju (sweet-and-sour aubergine), stirring clay pots over open flames.
You’ll sample the fruits – and vegetables- of your labour before heading back to your hotel, fuller, happier, and newly fluent in the flavours of Sri Lanka. Classes typically last around four hours, including the market visit, and run at both lunch and dinner times.
5. Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya
A short tuk-tuk ride from the city centre, Kandy’s Royal Botanic Gardens offer a peaceful antidote to the urban bustle and another of the best things to do in Kandy.
Spread across 150 acres on a lazy curve of the Mahaweli River, the gardens were once reserved for Kandyan royalty and later polished in colonial style by the British.
Today, it’s a riot of tropical colour and a popular place for Sri Lankan families to spend a lazy weekend. Royal palms line the main avenue, orchids bloom everywhere you look and enormous (seriously, get a photo next to them for the scale!) bamboo groves creak gently in the breeze. Keep an eye out for the resident bats slumbering in the upper branches and be sure to check out the avenue of cannonball trees, whose blooms smell divine but whose fruit can concuss the unwary.
Plan at least two hours to explore, more if you fancy a picnic beneath the palms. Entry is around LKR 3,000 (no need to book in advance), and mornings are the coolest time to visit. There are plenty of shaded spots so bring a picnic to slow down from more energetic pursuits.
Bonus – Take A Day Trip to Sigiriya
Kandy may well be the heart of Sri Lanka but Sigiriya is its showpiece outfit: a colossal rock fortress that rises 200 metres above the plains, about 2½ hrs north of the city – a relatively easy day trip.
Built in the 5th century by the ambitious – and more than a little paranoid – King Kashyapa, it’s part palace, part stronghold, and part ancient art gallery, with frescoes of celestial maidens still glowing on its walls. The climb itself is moderate in difficulty – around 1,200 steps, but with multiple places to sit and catch your breath and admire some of the finest views in Sri Lanka. Bring sensible shoes, snacks and a decent supply of water.
By far the easiest way to do this is via a group tour (from $30 per person) or with a private driver (from $60 per person) – most itineraries also include the spectacular Dambulla Caves en route, where the Buddhist frescoes defy gravity and the resident monkeys eye up your pockets (seriously, keep your valuables in your hand or tucked away in your bag!).
If you prefer to head south from Kandy, pick up your itinerary from here for a fantastic double dose of mountains and beaches.
Have you been to Kandy?
What are the best things to do in Kandy? Anything you’d add to this Kandy bucket list?
Global Traveller Phil Thomas is a freelance travel writer, based in UK, with over 110 countries under his belt. You can follow Phil’s adventures through his blog, Someone Else’s Country and via his Instagram, Facebook and Blueskychannels.
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Sri Lanka. Simply open the Google Map on your device and have all my recommendations at the touch of your fingertips.
