We’re half-way through Riviera Travel‘s epic Rhône River cruise. A journey from Avignon to Lyon, through vine-clad hills and the ghosts of Roman civilisation. Countless stories of history and art, accompanied by superb cuisine and excellent wines, continue as we join the Saône after Lyon.
History is being ticked off; we’ve seen the majesty of Avignon’s papal palace, Arles’ Roman amphitheatre and the towering Pont du Gard aqueduct.
We’ve done equally well on Art. Two Van Gogh oils introduced an Arles contemporary exhibition. Whilst the Ardeche’s 36,000-year-old Chauvet cave painting, has a strong claim to be the “World’s First Masterpiece.” Throw in some Botticellis in Avignon too.
These experiences are thoughtfully curated with Riviera’s 40 years of travel experience. Unsurprisingly drawing guests from all over the world to a luxurious ship: the majority are from the UK, but others have travelled from Ireland, America, Australia, Canada, China and Spain.
Day 5 – Vienne
As our arrival in Vienne is not scheduled until around 2pm, it’s an opportunity for a lie-in and a relaxed breakfast. Alongside the boulangerie, charcuterie, patisserie, fruit buffet and hot buffet, there are also eggs cooked to order. Then, Diana, the Course Director, gives us an introduction to the historic city.
Next there is a chance to head for the gym, have a dip in the small pool, sharpen golf short games on the putting green or have a massage.
There is also time for a leisurely lunch in the intimate Brasserie, with an open kitchen, that has just 24 covers. Selecting French onion soup followed by a goat’s cheese salad or croque monsieur or moules marinière makes for a quintessential French lunch. Advance bookings for dinner in the Brasserie are essential as it is a popular choice.
Long ago, Vienne vied with Lyon for the title of France’s most important Roman City. The Temple of Augustus, an amphitheatre, odeon and city wall remnants, all provide evidence that Vienne was a significant Roman city.
Alison, our guide, opts to begin at the cathedral with more recent history. “I’ll start with destruction and finish with death,” she jokes. Back in 1944, when retreating German forces blew up Vienne’s bridge they also shattered the centuries old stained-glass windows; replaced in the 1950s by modernist geometrical designs. Death came from France’s King Phillip the Fair burning members of the Knights Templar Order at the stake after the rigged Council of Vienne in the early 14th century. The “Fair” epithet came from his appearance, certainly not a sense of justice.
Back on board, during the cocktail hour, Pierre and his partner Nicole, give a dancing demonstration. Whilst Nicole rapidly changes dresses and eras between dances, Pierre, who has danced at Blackpool, gives hilarious commentary on the differences between British ballroom and more relaxed French dancing.
Day 6 – Chalon-sur-Saône and Beaune
Another morning of cruising north and the leaves are turning a golden brown as autumn takes hold. A month earlier the Rhone had been a flight path for millions of birds migrating south: black and red kites, cranes and cormorants amongst them. Cruise the Rhone in spring or autumn and it’s worth packing binoculars for Nature’s show.
Leaving the Rhone, we moor up at Chalon-sur-Saône where the world’s first photograph was taken by Nicephore Niepce in 1824. Even though Daguerre stole the fame, Chalon marks his achievement with a statue. “He was a serial inventor. A cross between Heath Robinson and Wallis from Wallis and Gromit,” says our guide as we head for Beaune, The Wine Capital of France.
As we enter the astoundingly ornate Hôtel-Dieu Museum, we are told, “Maybe it was called the Hospital of God because God was your best hope of recovery.” Medicine was primitive and putting two patients in a bed only increased fatalities. Prayer and surrounding the patients with religious art aimed to prepare them for the next world. Worryingly for patients, at the bottom of Rogier van der Weyden’s The Last Judgement altarpiece they saw more people heading for Hell than Heaven.
We return to the ship via the grand cru vineyards of the Côte d’Or, where the grapes are hand-picked, increasingly golden as autumn bites. Yet, the vines are struggling with global warming. Some winemakers are eyeing up acres in the South of England.
After farewell drinks and thanks to the crew we take our seats for The Captain’s Dinner, a four-course culinary extravaganza.
Day 7 – Lyon
Through the night we cruise back south along La Saône to Lyon where, giving up its name in marriage, the feminine river joins the masculine Le Rhône. It is said that the two rivers run away like lovers to the Mediterranean.
High on a hill, the Basilica looks like an extravagant wedding cake. From the neighbouring square, looking down over Lyon we learn of the city’s penchant for nicknames. As a thin office block is called The Pencil, its neighbour is The Rubber. Whilst the Opera House, glowing red at night, is The Toaster. Later we learn the classical columns of the Town Hall make it The Radiator.
Among the cobbles of Old Lyon, amongst Renaissance houses and shops, menus and deli produce remind us, as we walk the ancient streets of Lyon’s claim to be France’s gastronomic capital. Also, Lyon once claimed to be the world’s silk capital, its narrow streets echoing with the clacking of silk weaving looms.
Yet, Lyon’s fame began long before silk. An afternoon visit to the Ludnungum Museum, built into the side of the hill hosting the amphitheatre, tells the story of the development of a Roman colony vital to supplying the Empire’s northern regions.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2025
Day 8 – Departure
Sadly, we pull out our cases from under the bed to pack, leaving them out in the corridor, as we head for one last breakfast. Meanwhile, the crew put our luggage on the coach for the transfer to the airport.
The cost
An 8-day cruise begins from £1,899 based on two people sharing a cabin.
The final verdict
Riviera Travel provides care-free travel, eliminating the uncertainties. They organise itineraries and admissions, recruiting top-quality guides for a river cruise that could have been curated by Roman Gods, bygone Popes and master vintners.
And as one experienced Riviera Travel cruiser said, “The Rhône is even better than the Danube and Rhine, far more variety. Better wine too!” He had already booked for another Rivera Rhône cruise next spring that also took in the Camargue.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Riviera Travel.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.
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