If you’re planning a trip to Mysore, chances are you’re planning to practice yoga; that was certainly the case for me.
Located in the southern Indian state of Karnataka, Mysore (or Mysuru, as it is officially named) is known as the “birthplace” of Ashtanga yoga, which was founded by Pattabhi Jois in the 1930s and 40s.
While yoga is what draws most international tourists to Mysore, there is much more to this charming heritage city, which offers an excellent alternative to the crowded beaches of Goa or the well-trodden tracks of the Golden Triangle. With its historic palaces, temples and markets, plus a thriving yoga and café scene, there is an excellent balance of Indian culture and familiar home comforts.
If you’re wandering what the best things to do in Mysore are or where to stay in Mysore – you’re in the right place. This guide to Mysore will give you plenty of reasons to visit and ideas for what to do in this beautiful city – both in the yoga shalas and out.
The Best Time to Visit Mysore, India
As with most parts of southern India, the best time to visit Mysore is from October to March, when the weather is most pleasant. During my visit in January, temperatures were around 28°C throughout the day and dropped to 15°C in the evenings. From March onwards, the temperatures soar, and come June, the monsoons roll in.
Note: January and February are peak seasons for domestic tourists: booking accommodation in advance is advisable.
Getting to Mysore, India
Mysore is located 180 kilometres west of Bangalore’s Kempegowda International Airport, a major hub with excellent connections. A taxi from the airport will cost approximately 3,500 rupees and takes around 3 hours, depending on traffic. You can easily arrange a taxi at a stand in the arrivals hall, or you can use Uber, too. FlyBus also runs directly from the airport to Mysore for 950 rupees, leaving every hour or so. You can check timings here.
Mysore is well-connected to surrounding locations via its bus network. You can pre-book bus tickets via RedBus or 12GoAsia (I always had more luck with RedBus) or, alternatively, find a local travel agency to book tickets for a very small commission (about 100 rupees). Travel agencies were the only way I found it possible to pre-book train tickets without an Indian bank card or phone number.
Where to Stay in Mysore
“Gokulam?” – this was the first thing I heard, from an eager tuk-tuk driver, as I stepped from the bus onto the dusty streets of Mysore.
If you are a foreign traveller arriving in the city, locals will usually, and correctly, assume you are heading to the Gokulam neighbourhood. This is where most of the yoga studios and western-style cafes are located, creating a bubble that can be a soothing respite from the intensity of India. Even if you aren’t here for yoga, the wide, tree-lined streets and beautiful architecture offer a peaceful setting.
Gokulam has a more relaxed dress code for female travellers – it’s not uncommon to see women in yoga leggings, shorts, or strappy tops (something you won’t see in most parts of India, where females are required to cover up). Remember to be respectful, though, especially around holy sites.
Gokulam offers ample accommodation for a variety of budgets. I arrived on a major national holiday and was alarmed to discover that much of the accommodation was sold out, so be aware that you may want to book ahead if visiting at a busy time. Here are a few options to consider:
- Beedu Backpackers Hostel – I spent two quiet nights in a private room here for 2,300 rupees. They also offer dorm beds for 735 rupees. It was basic but clean, with a few communal spaces and a kitchen. The location is ideal, just a few blocks off the main road, near all the cafes and yoga studios.
- Nine Boutique Hotel – A brand new spot in central Gokulam, with large, modern rooms costing 3,100 rupees a night. Despite its position on the main road, noise is minimal.
- Homestays – By far my favourite type of accommodation in India. Here are a few options that were recommended to me, and which I loved the look of:
Getting Around Mysore, India
Avoid the hugely inflated tourist prices by using Uber to call tuk-tuks. Just be sure to select the “pay by cash” option as the drivers will expect cash payment. Prices are still higher than what locals pay, but nowhere near as much as bartering directly.
1. Hop on a yoga mat in the home of Ashtanga Yoga
Yoga, specifically Ashtanga yoga, is one of the main draws for international travellers (and many Indians) visiting Mysore. I was a little surprised to discover that many studios are only open to long-term practitioners who have signed up for a minimum of two weeks (for example, the prestigious Shri K. Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute requires a one-month minimum commitment). There are a handful of studios that offer drop-in classes, although these can move at a fast pace, with many students being part of longer teacher training programmes. I would recommend checking with the studio to ensure the class is appropriate for your level. Most schools list phone numbers online and are very active on WhatsApp – they will happily share schedules with you.
I can also confirm (from first-hand experience) that you do not want to attend an Ashtanga class in Mysore if you have never practised Ashtanga yoga before – this is a very intense style of yoga that involves set poses which you need to know in advance.
Note: Yoga can be quite different in India compared to the West, with teachers often diving straight in without any niceties, introductions or inquiries about injuries. There are often lots of adjustments, and things can move at a fast pace. It can be a challenge to begin with, but your practice is sure to grow.
Here are some schools that offer drop-in sessions:
Drop in classes cost 800 rupees – there is no need to pre-book, you can just show up (daily, weekly and monthly passes are also available). They offer hatha, ashtanga, back-bending, hip opening, aerial and restorative yoga, as well as pranayama and meditation. Check the full schedule on their website and note that some classes are held at another studio, a short walk away. They also offer accommodation, with a one-week minimum stay (27,000 rupees), including all yoga and meditation classes.
This school offers a range of classes, including some great beginner-friendly options, which are clearly marked on their class schedule. They also offer aerial, chair and wheel yoga, plus Ashtanga, of course. Drop-in fees are 500 rupees, and there is no need to book ahead.
This lovely café and guest house also offers yoga classes, focusing on back-bending, arm balancing and hip opening. The schedule is posted on their Instagram page but these classes sell out and you need to pre-book. They also offer workshops and events – check Instagram for updates.
Looking for yoga equipment or souvenirs? Be sure to check out Vastra Yoga Store.
2. Enjoy the café culture in Gokulam
Indian food is a highlight of any trip to India and one of the best things to do in Mysore, but there may be a limit to the amount of curry you want to consume (particularly for breakfast). Gokulam has a wealth of western-style cafes offering pancakes, smoothie bowls, salads, sandwiches and pizzas, plus great coffee and even locally brewed kombucha.
Many cafes also offer Indian food (make sure to try a thali!), and most are open for dinner. In the mornings, many of these spots will be filled with yogis, fresh off their mats, sipping masala chai and discussing their classes. Expect to pay more than you would in local spots.
Here are some of my favourite Gokulam cafés:
- Organic Café & Bakehouse – great for lunch, as well as delicious fresh baked goods from their in-house bakery
- Depth N Green – I recommend trying their sourdough pizza for dinner
- Chakra House Cafe – this was my favourite spot to relax in the mornings after class – it is usually full of yoga students discussing yoga theory
- Anokhi Garden Café – a peaceful café under a canopy of green trees that offers a yummy veggie menu
- Tina’s Café – a great spot for dinner. The matriarch is a real character, and will advise you on what to order.
3. Savour a local speciality: the Mysore Masala Dosa
Dosas are a staple food across southern India and Mysore has its own take on this savoury crepe, made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils and served with dips.
The Mysore variety has a special filling – spicy chili-garlic chutney and potato – and is thicker than a traditional dosa. Dosas are typically a breakfast food but can be eaten at any time of day, making a great light lunch or dinner option, especially if you’re on a budget. I tried my first Mysore masala dosa at Dose Corner in Gokulam.
If you love trying local dishes – trying a Mysore Dosa is one of the best things to do in Mysore!
4. Admire the opulence of Mysore Palace
Mysore Palace, also known as Amba Vilas Palace, is one of the leading tourist attractions in Mysore and is a must-visit. Tickets cost 1,000 rupees for foreign tourists and can be purchased from a ticket office at the entry gate.
The palace grounds include a number of temples, topiary sculptures depicting some of India’s most loved animals, and stables housing the palace elephants.
Before entering the palace, you will need to remove your shoes – we were advised not to leave them unattended, as many people do, and instead directed to the free shoe-check service. Once inside, you’ll step back in time and discover the lavish interiors of the Wadiyar dynasty – bright wall paintings, intricately carved furniture, and, most stunning of all, opulent collonaded halls filled with brightly painted arches and columns all capped with gold.
Note: Weekends and public holidays can be overwhelmingly busy with Indian tourists.
5. Make the pilgrimage up Chamundi Hill at dawn
Climbing Chamundi Hill to the Chamundeshwari temple with the local pilgrims is a great way to start a day in Mysore. Get up before sunrise and take a tuk tuk to the starting point, here.
Ascending the 1,000 steps shouldn’t take more than an hour and you will be accompanied by a diverse group of climbers: men in activewear out for their morning exercise (occasionally stopping at a shrine to pray), families with unhappy children in tow and, most intriguing of all, young women pausing to dab orange or red dye on each and every stone step (theirs is a slow ascent).
6. Enjoy the colours and smells of Devaraja Market
The vibrant colours and rich smells of India truly come to life in its markets, and Devaraja is no exception: this was one of my favourite places to explore in Mysore. The liveliness of this 100-year-old covered market provides the perfect backdrop for your senses to come alive.
The scents of spices and essential oils mingle with fresh jasmine and lilies, whilst the eyes feast on stalls laden with locally grown fruit and veg. The highlight of Devaraja is the flower section, where row upon row of men assemble garlands ready for shoppers to purchase for religious ceremonies.
There is something wonderfully alluring about Mysore, and this is confirmed by the fact that many young people from the nearby metropolis of Bangalore are moving here for a slower, more peaceful life.
Get ready to be charmed! Even if you are travelling here especially for yoga, be sure to get out and explore the wider city.
Have you been to Mysore?
What are the best things to do in Mysore? Anything you’d add to this Mysore bucket list?
You can follow Nikki’s work and adventures on @nikkiscriv_artofbalance and at The Wandering Scrivener on Substack.
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