In recent years, I’ve been spending at least a month annually in Inverness: no small commitment for a nomad! The hiking brought me to this Scottish town, but the rich cultural scene, peated Highland whiskies, and small-town vibes have kept me coming back year after year. Whether I’m at the climbing gym or the Impact Hub coworking space, locals are friendly and chatty, with a generosity that I am overwhelmingly grateful for. Twice now, a local who has only just met me has offered me a spare room, saving me a lot of money and headaches.
Inverness has long been just a pause for many travellers as they make their way onward into the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. While that may provide enough time to hit the well-known highlights around this small city, those who dare to stay more than a night will be rewarded with a warm welcome, as I have been.
In this guide, I’d love to share some of the lesser-known delights to be found in the capital of the Scottish Highlands, which can be a great balance to the famous spots that are surely topping your list.
Anyone who has stayed in a city for more than a couple of days knows you have to balance the adventurous with the cosy. For every day chasing Nessie or taking in Culloden Battlefield, Inverness can offer more than enough bakeries, arty locales, and whisky tastings to warm you up.
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Getting to Know Inverness
Inverness is the largest city in Scotland’s far north, nestled at the junction of the Moray Firth and River Ness. Popular with adventure seekers hiking the Great Glen Way and Outlander fans visiting Culloden Battlefield, the city’s tourism has exploded over the past decade, while the population has also grown steadily.
It’s not hard to understand why: a walkable city with charming architecture and access to hiking, biking, windsurfing, and more just on the doorstep, Inverness is the perfect place from which to explore the stark beauty of the Scottish Highlands.
But over the years, I have found myself staying longer and longer in the city, which is bursting with cultural experiences like the thriving trad music scene, growing restaurant offerings, and welcoming community events. Any traveller giving Inverness a bit more of their time can also uncover the warm, welcoming heart of the capital of the Scottish Highlands.
How to get to Inverness
It takes 3.5 hours from Edinburgh Waverley or 4 hours from Glasgow; the train ride through the Cairngorm Mountains is the easiest and most visually enjoyable way to get to Inverness. Inverness also has a small, convenient airport with direct flights from cities across Europe, including London, Amsterdam, and Dublin.
Renting a car gives you more flexibility during your visit, though the city and many surrounding areas are easy to navigate on foot, by bus, or by train.
Scotland is one of the most picturesque countries for a road trip. Always been dreaming of it? Check out some of our most popular guides:
Where to stay in Inverness
Lodging can be on the pricier side, especially in summer, but there are still deals to be found.
- Guest Houses like The Coo’s Guest House, can provide affordable options that will charm those of us unused to the stone homes common in this area.
- Those of you with Bonvoy points may find deals at the sprawling AC Hotel along the river.
- Personally, pet-sitting (via TrustedHousesitters) has been my preferred way to stay in the city long-term, as there may be as many dogs and cats here as humans!
When to visit Inverness
While summer is the height of the season for good reason – it is the only time of year when you might get by with a light jacket or none at all – fall and winter reward the brave with more affordable lodging, fewer crowds, and an excuse to wear any knitwear you might pick up while visiting.
Getting excited for a Scotland trip? Thinking about exploring more of this beautiful country:
Immerse yourself in Trad Music
Scottish trad music is central to Inverness’s cultural scene. A communal experience, trad music is the backbone of a typical cèilidh – a traditional social gathering that is absolutely worth seeking out – but the music can also bring you to tears, as I learned when listening to Beth Malcolm perform “Leavin’ Loch Leven” in Inverness a few years back.
If you’re visiting in summer, Under Canvas is a beautiful venue to check out on the lawn of Eden Court (more on them below!). My personal favourite is the Highlander, which can range from cosy to rowdy depending on the night. But strolling through town, you will stumble upon musicians in just about every pub from Gellions to Hootenanny to MacGregor’s at some point in the week.
The Highlander is open daily, 12 till late, with music every night. Under Canvas only runs in the summer months. Check websites for specifics.
Take a class or go to an art opening at Wasps
Wasps Inverness Creative Academy sits atop the city at the end of Stephen’s Street, giving visitors a view into the Highland mountains on a clear day.
The Academy is home to artist studios, gallery spaces, and workshops, plus my favourite scones in the atrium coffee shop, Cafè de Paulo. Some of my favourite afternoons have been at Wasps, stumbling upon musicians gathering for a trad music session in the cafe, or at a Drink and Draw with Isle of Riso, where I made new friends while creating my own collage masterpiece.
Wasps is open Monday to Saturday, 9 am to 5 pm, with the cafe open every day except Sunday. Check the website and social media for more details.
Check out a play or indie film at Eden Court
Visitors to the city can’t miss this performing arts centre as they stroll along the River Ness, though many don’t venture inside.
While spending a few snowy months in Inverness, I found myself at Eden Court again and again. To see popular indie films, check out their holiday craft festival, and attend the Highlands New Play Festival. From film to theatre to their airy, bright cafe, there is always something on for visitors to enjoy
Eden Court and the cafe are open daily. Check the website for hours and specific showtimes.
Sample whisky at the Malt Room
This one might already be on your list, as many tours finish with a tasting at the space. But I couldn’t leave the Malt Room off this list! It has become my go-to for its cosy environment and knowledgeable, friendly bartenders.
Many of the most unique whiskies that I’ve tasted – special blends, limited bottlings – have appeared to me in the hands of a Malt Room bartender. Whether you’re a whisky novice or a more adventurous sipper of the most peated drams, you can easily whittle away an evening touring the whole of Scotland while never leaving your stool.
Open Monday through Saturday, 12 pm to 1 am; Sunday, 3 pm to 1 am.
Create your own pastry walking tour
The biggest sin of staying just a day or two in Inverness is the limited amount of pastries that one can eat in that time. This tiny city is packed with incredible bakeries that you can’t miss out on. From classics at the simply named The Bakery to more adventurous flavours of the popular XOCO, you must give yourself time to try them all. Some others I recommend are the giant scones at Jammy Piece, baked goods in a gorgeous environment at the Botanic Gardens & Cafe, and savoury pies at Am Bothan.
Join a creative community event at the Bike Shed
The Bike Shed was a mystery to me for a long time, settled as it is slightly outside the more popular areas, with inconsistent operating hours. But it was worth the wait: a community space as well as a coffee house, the Bike Shed hosts a number of events each month, from group singing to writing groups, game nights to kids’ events, that are welcoming and provide visitors with a key to unlocking community in the city.
Open 10 am to 12 pm, Thursday to Saturday, but also open for events.
Take a day trip to Nairn
While many travellers head to Drumnadrochit to explore Loch Ness or to Culloden Battlefield to explore that pivotal point in Scottish history, I recommend adding Nairn to that list if you’re in the city for a week.
A 25-minute train journey away along the Moray Firth, Nairn is known for:
- Beaches and swimming for the adventurous amongst you
- A quaint High Street with plenty of restaurants,
- The fabulous Golf View Hotel & Spa, where you can get a day pass just to their pool and sauna, or make a day of it with their menu of services. Be sure to linger in their restaurant and library for relaxing North Sea views.
The M96 Bus to Nairn (35 minutes) runs every hour on weekdays and every two hours on weekends. The ScotRail (25 minutes; Elgin route) runs from Inverness Station multiple times a day.
Hours vary. Visit website for bookings and information.
What are your favourite lesser-known experiences in Inverness?
What are the best things to do in Inverness? Anything you’d add to this Inverness bucket list?
Sarah Jean Benvenuti
Sarah Jean Benvenuti is a writer, musician, nomad, and creative entrepreneur. She is the founder of Benvenuti Arts and a co-founder of the Wandering Theatre Collective. She can often be found in Pittsburgh, Inverness, and Bologna. You can read more of her writing at sarahjeanbenvenuti.com and on Instagram @sarahjeanbenvenuti.
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Scotland. Simply open the map on your device and all my recommendations are at the touch of your fingertips.
