The Dolomites have lived on my mood board for years—the jagged limestone spires, the honey‑colored larch forests and villages stitched into the hillsides. This fall, my husband JT and I finally saw them in person on a Dolomites road trip that was part joint birthday trip, part babymoon. We spent our days on scenic drives and quiet hikes, and our nights in three stays that each showed a different side of South Tyrol: beautiful design, thoughtful wellness and a closeness to nature that never felt out of reach.
Getting Around the Mountains
The Dolomites wasted no time in making an impression: hairpin turns, long tunnels and cliff-hugging roads are simply the norm here. Thankfully, JT was driving. I was mostly just relieved to be beyond the first trimester, taking deep breaths and letting the views do their magic. And what views—jagged peaks, golden trees and valleys opening like storybook pages around every bend.
A Family Affair
After a quick stop in Cortina d’Ampezzo to admire the sights along the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop, we continued on to our first stay: Hotel Petrus. Its wooden walls and modest alpine exterior don’t quite hint at what treasures wait within. The spa was the first thing that wowed us: saunas, steam rooms and three dedicated relaxation rooms, each tied to natural materials from the region: pine to quiet the mind, sheep’s wool to soften and warm and hay to restore and strengthen.
Come dinner time, we relished in the nightly multi-course tasting menu, featuring ingredients grown just down the street in the family garden tended by Papa Hans. Hotel Petrus is truly a family-run hotel: the sisters welcomed us at the front desk, Papa Hans led our garden tour and Mama Gerti even serenaded us over aperitifs. The love and care the family pours into this property is palpable in every corner.
While in the area, don’t miss an early sunrise trip to Lago di Braies, just a 30-minute drive from the hotel. Then hop on the gondola up to Kronplatz to visit MMM Corones, a mountaineering museum envisioned by architect Zaha Hadid.
High‑Altitude Calm
Heading southwest, our next base was the Instagram-famous Forestis, perched above Brixen/Bressanone with dramatic mountain views that look sketched by a seismograph. The architecture leans on natural materials—wood, stone, glass—so the rooms feel like quiet viewing platforms, letting the landscape speak for itself. Every room is intentionally oriented toward the mountains, offering what might be one of the best hotel views in all of the Dolomites.
The story of how Forestis came to be is quite magical: one of the owners, who ran a nearby restaurant, drove by the area many times, always noticing an abandoned building overgrown with trees. Curiosity finally got the best of him, and he explored the site—a structure meant to be a sanatorium 100 years ago. Captivated by its beauty and energy, he knew others needed to experience it too. And just like that, Forestis was born.
Mornings were spent catching the sunrise over the mountain peaks, indulging in a delicious breakfast buffet—which, to my delight, included an entire room devoted to juicing fresh fruits and veggies—and then following it up with a refreshing dip in the heated pool.
Evenings followed a similar cadence of relaxation. Dinner was a love letter to Alpine produce—elevated yet unfussy—best capped with a visit to the clothing-optional spa, which we sadly only discovered on our final night. Time in the relaxation room felt almost spiritual, the perfect way to unwind.
While in the area, a good day trip is to the charming village of Val di Funes, home to one of the Dolomites’ most iconic viewpoints and the nearby Church of St. John. That said, if you decided not to leave Forestis at all, I wouldn’t blame you—it’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay put forever.
A Softer Side of the Dolomites
For the final leg of our trip, we ventured to the gateway of the Dolomites and checked into adults‑only Avidea. Here, the air turns more Mediterranean and the landscape softens from jagged peaks to rolling, vineyard-covered hills where palms and cypress mingle with pines. After many days spent hiking and bundled up in mountain air, this gentler setting felt like the perfect landing.
There’s no shortage of places to unwind, from the sky terrace with its heated pool to the dining patio and main spa. My favorite, though, was the quieter indoor-outdoor pool, where floor-to-ceiling glass windows frame sweeping views of the surrounding hills, all enjoyed from the comfort of the warm water.
All-inclusive luxury here means generous breakfasts, lunches and dinners—plus most of the drinks. There’s something undeniably indulgent about sipping Italy’s finest wines without ever seeing a tab. Though being pregnant, I longingly lived through my husband as he embraced the perk, savoring every pour. Paired with a nightly menu that beautifully melded Mediterranean and international flavors, we were truly living like royalty. From there, it’s just a short hop to Merano’s promenades for a leisurely stroll and a scoop of gelato.
A Farewell to the Peaks
On our final morning, we made our way back to Venice to reluctantly return the rental car and catch our flight home to San Diego. I felt a twinge of sadness leaving, but also a deep sense of fullness knowing we experienced so much of what makes the Dolomites special: spectacular views, peaceful mountain luxury and adventures that somehow raise your heart rate and calm it all at once. So long, Dolomites—we’ll definitely be back.
