They say this is one of the four corners of the world. Standing at the edge of Eastern Canada’s Newfoundland, looking out over the endless Atlantic, I can see why. The land is raw and windswept, carved by centuries of weather and sea. And yet, despite its remoteness, a quiet warmth lingers here. Much of that comes from the place that brought my husband, Niall, and I to this far-flung shore: Fogo Island Inn.
The Road to Fogo Island
Getting to Fogo Island isn’t easy—but that’s part of its magic. After touching down in St. John’s, we hit the road and drove to Farewell Harbour, the departure point for the 50-minute ferry ride to Fogo. It’s during that crossing that the wind first makes itself known. Though the calendar says spring, patches of snow still cling to the ground, and a brooding beauty lingers in the air, a quiet reminder that nature sets the pace here. And when the inn finally comes into view—angular and elevated, as if rising from the rock itself—I feel as though I’ve arrived at the very edge of the world.
A Design Anchored in Nature
Brought to life by native Newfoundland architect Todd Saunders, Fogo Island Inn is an architectural wonder that immediately grounds you in its surroundings. Stepping inside, everything softens. The wind quiets, the cold retreats and in its place comes a sense of welcome so genuine it feels almost familial. The inn’s interiors are a study in thoughtful contrasts: refined yet rustic, spare yet soulful. Repurposed woods, handwoven textiles and nods to nautical life—like coiled fishing ropes and painted furniture—tell a story of place, craft and care. It’s luxury, yes, but fully entrenched in the island’s spirit: honest, humble and wholly captivating.
A Window to the Wild
Right on cue, the clouds part. Light spills into the long, slender hallways, pooling softly as I make my way to my room—one of just 29, each thoughtfully unique. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Atlantic, drawing it into every corner. In each room, a wide-opening window invites in the briny air and the steady hum of wind and waves. Thanks to cozy wood-burning stoves and hand-stitched quilts (each bearing the name of a local maker) draped across the bed, I leave the window open and breathe it all in. An afternoon spent listening to the crashing waves follows.
A Taste of the Labrador Current
When it comes to food, every dish here tells the story of the fishers, hunters and foragers who share the island’s bounty. We settle into the Dining Room, where a soaring ceiling and immense windows offer sweeping views of the land and sea, the very sources of each ingredient. The hotel sits in the path of the Labrador Current—often called the lungs of the planet—where life is shaped by the rhythms of nature, and the cuisine follows suit. That evening, we savoured scallops pulled straight from the nearby waters of Garnish, their sweetness speaking of place.
As the sky begins to blush with sunset, we drift to the lounge for a cocktail by the fire, binoculars at the ready to catch every flicker of light dancing across the open waters.If waking to the sound of waves wasn’t enough to charm us, the basket of warm, freshly baked goods and hot coffee delivered to the door each morning certainly was. There was something quietly magical about starting the day beneath the covers, coffee in hand, watching the Atlantic stir just beyond.
A Journey Through Fogo’s Creative Heart
We spent the morning soaking up the stillness before setting out on an island tour with our warm and knowledgeable community host, Rosemary. As we made our way through Fogo’s 12 distinctive communities, she brought the island to life with stories of its rich history and deep-rooted traditions. Along the way, we visited the Long Studio, Squish Studio and several local artist spaces, each one a striking fusion of raw natural beauty and bold contemporary design. Fogo has become a haven for artists from around the world, drawn by the solitude and inspiration these studios provide. As an artist myself, I couldn’t help but imagine what it might feel like to create in one of them. At one point, I caught a glimpse of the inn from a distance, its stilts anchored deep into the granite hillside. In that moment, it felt as though we were stepping directly into the island’s creative soul.
Later that day, I had the chance to channel my own creativity as we caught one of the most epic sunsets we’d ever seen. Camera in hand, we savoured every moment, the sky awash in colour. Afterwards, we made our way to the inn’s rooftop, where wood-burning saunas and open-air hot tubs awaited. We soaked, took in the sweeping views and let the warmth melt away the last traces of chill from the day.
The next day, we made our way to my favorite spot on the property: the Tea Room. There’s always a warm drink waiting here, along with a quiet sense of comfort. The cozy space, lined with benches, is home to the Guest Experiences team—kind, thoughtful people who are ready to help you plan your time on Fogo Island, from daily excursions to local experiences. What makes it even more special is knowing that Fogo Island Inn isn’t just a hotel. It’s a community-centred social business built on regenerative practices, helping to support the future of the island’s people, nature and culture. And that care shows—in every conversation, every smile, every thoughtful detail.
Leaving with a Promise to Return
As we departed, the team sent us off with a packed lunch of fresh sandwiches—a thoughtful, unexpected gesture that made saying goodbye feel just as meaningful as our arrival. It’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve left, and as we retraced our journey to the mainland, we were already plotting our return. It’s no wonder Fogo Island Inn, with its raw beauty, quiet luxury and commitment to preserving the island’s soul, has a way of drawing you back again and again.
