If ever a country were designed to make you feel under-travelled, it’s Sri Lanka. This compact island packs in more diversity than some continents. Within a few hours, you can go from ancient cities carved into rock to misty, cardamom-scented mountains, or from wild elephant plains to beaches that rival anything in the Caribbean.
We travelled to Sri Lanka in September, which is technically “shoulder season.” In reality, this meant practically 75% sunshine with the odd theatrical downpour to keep things interesting. Two weeks is the sweet spot for a loop that takes in Sigiriya’s lion-topped fortress and Galle’s colonial charm, with time for heritage, hikes, and encounters with Sri Lanka’s exuberant wildlife. Just keep a raincoat close to hand.
If you’re planning a trip to Sri Lanka and you’re wondering what the best things to do are and how to plan your 2 weeks there… You’re in the perfect Sri Lanka travel guide!
Our 14-day Sri Lanka itinerary skips long beach days; my partner’s Irish complexion doesn’t take kindly to Sri Lankan sun, but those seeking tan-line improvement should linger around Negombo (near Colombo) or the southern coast around Mirissa / Ahangama.
If you have less time in Sri Lanka, this one-week itinerary gives you all you need for a whistlestop adventure. Let’s tuck in, shall we?
Getting Around Sri Lanka: Driver vs. Train
In Sri Lanka, “getting there” can be half the adventure – and occasionally half the day.
Trains are slow, scenic, and wonderfully atmospheric: open windows, jungle views, and the spontaneous sharing of snacks and stories. Tickets for the Colombo–Kandy–Ella line open 30 days ahead, and advance booking is wise, especially in peak season (December–March).
That said, the rails don’t reach everywhere and, I repeat, are slow. Sigiriya and Horton Plains are firmly off-map, and each day’s journey between major locations will take several hours (before the inevitable delays). To maximise our time, we opted for a private driver – which sounds indulgent at first but worked out economically at around $60 per day.
We booked our driver, Rohan, six months ahead and fine-tuned the route with him via WhatsApp – an efficient mix of planning and charm. This gave us local insight, flexibility and the ability to explore locations hidden from most tourists.
That said, you can’t ignore the train entirely (the Nuwara Eliya – Ella stretch is unmissable, see Day 9), but for comfort and speed, a driver wins.
To visit destinations off the train map like Sigiriya, I’d recommend day tours (from Kandy in this case) through Viator or Get Your Guide. Guesthouses often have tuk-tuks – and drivers – for short hops like Nuwara Eliya to Horton’s Plains. Technically, you can self-drive, but unless you enjoy dodging tuk-tuks, cows, and creative interpretations of lane discipline, I wouldn’t recommend it for your blood pressure.
For more Sri Lankan highlights and inspiration, check out this post.
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Sri Lanka. Simply open the Google Map on your device and have all my recommendations at the touch of your fingertips.
Practical Tips for Travelling in Sri Lanka
Getting there: Most international flights arrive at Bandaranaike International Airport near Negombo (40-60 minutes from downtown Colombo and Colombo Fort, where trains originate).
Getting around: Driver vs. Train debate is covered above. We also downloaded Pickme – the Sri Lankan Uber – which was ideal for shorter journeys. Choice of cars, tuk tuks or – for the bravest – the back of scooters!
Visas: Apply online for an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) before arrival. Approval is near-instant and valid for 30 days.
Weather: Sri Lanka’s weather is gloriously confusing – we experienced all four seasons and many more. Layers and a (close to hand) lightweight rain jacket are your best bet.
Money & logistics when travelling in Sri Lanka
- Card payments are prevalent in cities, although cash remains king in rural areas and when paying Pickme drivers.
- ATMs are easy enough to find – we used Bank of Ceylon frequently without issue and – unexpected bonus – without FX fees. Banks will also change foreign currency into USD – if using a smaller vendor, ask to see the amount you should receive and the exchange rate before handing anything over.
- Keep hold of small notes, 100 and 200LKR, for rides, souvenirs and snacks as change is rarely forthcoming!
- Some attractions (e.g. Sigiriya Rock) display entry fees in USD but will accept LKR.
Day 1 – Arrival, Dambulla Caves, and Sigiriya
Drive Time: Approx. 4hrs
We threw ourselves straight into our Sri Lankan adventure—arrival day and all—figuring we’d be exhausted anyway. Heading north, we stopped at the Dambulla Cave Temples (entry $10 USD), an unexpected “Day One WOW.” Five chambers of murals and golden Buddhas glow softly in the rock light, with purple jasmine offerings scattered below. How anyone painted those naturally curved ceilings remains one of life’s mysteries. The climb is steep (bring water) but absolutely worth it.
By dusk, we reached Sigiriya, our base for three nights. Forest Edge Eco-Lodge proved a perfect post-travel hideaway: comfortable, cool, and surrounded by jungle. We fell asleep to a chorus of insects who clearly hadn’t heard of bedtime.Top tip: Your first- but far from last – monkey encounter will be at the steps leading to the Dambulla Caves. Keep valuables zipped up; they’re cheeky and disturbingly good pickpockets.
Day 2 – Ancient Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya Rock
Driving Time: 2¼ hrs return to Polonnaruwa, 45 minutes return to Sigiriya Rock
Our first full day began early at Polonnaruwa (entry $30 USD), the UNESCO site of ancient Sri Lanka’s second capital, with history dating back nearly a millennium and where serene Buddhas and crumbling palaces rest amid shady trees and monkey chatter. The highlight was the 12th-century Gal Viharaya Buddha statue carved directly into the rock.
Our driver Rohan was a game-changer here, explaining the symbolism behind the statues and whisking us between temples spread over 26 square kilometres. Trust me: you don’t want to walk that under the midday sun.
After lunch and a brief siesta, we tackled Sigiriya Rock Fortress (entry $30 USD), one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic sites. Built in the 5th century by – the slightly paranoid – King Kashyapa, it’s part palace, part fortress, part art installation (check out the carved lion face at the base of the final climb!)
The 1,200-step climb isn’t especially challenging but does demand stamina, especially the final staircase clinging to the rock face (those scared of heights may want to stop prior to this). At the summit, the late-afternoon view of jungles, water gardens and distant hills is pure magic.
Travel tips
Top tip 1: Polonnaruwa is huge and not especially shaded – start early and plan your route in advance (or rent a bike if driver-free).
Top tip 2: Sigiriya is packed at sunset. Cloudy day? Go early morning or mid-afternoon, the views are just as spectacular and it will have a fraction of the crowds.
Day 3 – Elephants at Minneriya National Park
Driving Time: Approx. 1½ hrs return to the park entrance
After a lazy morning and early lunch in Sigiriya, we set off for one of Sri Lanka’s true showstoppers.
Seeing wild Asian elephants was top of our wish list, and Minneriya National Park (entry fee included in tour price – bank on minimum $50 per person) delivered in style, a real-life David Attenborough documentary. Safaris must be booked in advance, including a guide and open-top 4×4 that collects you from your hotel. It’s most famous for the annual ‘gathering’ of some 300 elephants between July and October every year. Outside of this time, a trip to Yala National Park on the drive south from Ella to the coast is more likely to reap rewards.
After a bumpy ride through dense bush, we rounded a corner and promptly forgot how to speak. Dozens of elephants surrounded us, mothers grazing, babies trumpeting, and one surly bull who sauntered past our jeep with majestic indifference. Further on, we watched a herd bathing in the shallows and calves sliding gleefully in the mud. As wildlife encounters go, it’s pure magic.
Top tip: Afternoon safaris (departing Sigirya hotels around 1:30–2:30 pm) give the best chance of spotting large herds and the most activity, as the heat eases. From Kandy, you can combine Sigiriya Rock and Minneriya on this full-day tour.
Day 4 – Pidurangula Sunrise and Kandy’s Sacred Toot
Driving Time: 3 hours’ drive to Kandy
Before leaving Sigiriya, we had an early wake-up (5am) for one final viewpoint, from the top of Pidurangala Rock. A 30-minute climb (slowed by a flux of tourists), ends in a brief rocky scramble. Most people crowd to face Sigiriya across the jungle floor, but step a little aside and you’ll watch the jungle wake beneath you as sunlight spills over the horizon, worth the yawns later in the day.
After breakfast and a shower, we headed south to the highlands and to Kandy, Sri Lanka’s cultural capital and home to the revered Temple of the Sacred Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa). Said to house a relic of the Buddha’s tooth, it’s hidden within ornate golden caskets, but the atmosphere, incense, drumming, and devotion is unforgettable.
Intricate murals trace Kandy’s proud past as an independent kingdom until 1815. Entry costs 2,000 LKR; a guided tours is well worth it.
We stayed at SWP Ecolodge on Kandy Lake (about $65 per night) and spent the evening strolling lakeside and dining nearby at the – unoriginally named but delicious portions – Golden Curry restaurant.
Travel tip
Dress modestly – cover your legs and shoulders – when visiting the Temple of the Tooth. Come at mid-afternoon when ceremonies begin for the ultimate cultural immersion.
Day 5 – Trekking in the Knuckles Mountains
Driving Time: Approx. 1-hour drive each way
Knuckles Mountain Range is a short drive from Kandy and proved to be a hiker’s paradise: jungle trails, air that smelled faintly of cinnamon and an incredible range of edible flora and fauna en route. Our guide – see below – pointed out multiple items common to every Sri Lankan dinner table (pepper, mangoes, jackfruit, cloves, vanilla and much more), picking assorted examples for us to try. It was as much a botanical lesson as it was miles in the legs.
This was a full-day excursion and after freshening up back in Kandy, we visited the Central Market before dinner. The upper floor is among the cheapest place in Sri Lanka to pick up souvenirs (some gentle haggling required), whether it’s elephant yoga pants, coconut cookware or carved masks you’re in the market for.
Travel tip:
You can only hike in Knuckles with an accredited guide – we used the excellent Nipuna Hikingwhose price ($110 USD for full-day private hike) included transfers to/from hotel. Alongside day hikes, they offer multi-day hikes including homestays.
Travel tip:
Wear long sleeves and lightweight trousers – the climate in Knuckles is ideal for leeches. Guides should typically provide leech socks (knee-length waders you wear over regular socks and trousers) to prevent them from latching to your legs, but check in advance.
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Sri Lanka. Simply open the Google Map on your device and have all my recommendations at the touch of your fingertips.
Day 6 – Botanic Gardens, Cooking, and Kandyan Culture
A gentler start today with a stroll through Kandy’s Royal Botanic Gardens (10–15 minutes from the centre, entry 3,000 LKR), a sprawling Victorian creation of towering double coconuts, flamboyant orchids, and hundreds of bats snoozing overhead.
Lunch had to be earned: we joined a Sri Lankan cooking class that began back at Central Market, selecting (and sampling) ingredients for lunch before heading into the hills for a crash course in curries, daals, and okra, all under the uncompromising gaze of a Sri Lankan grandmother. Multiple operators run similar classes around Kandy, with Viator offering a solid range. Pick one that includes the visit to Central Market.
We capped the day at Kandy Lake Club, where drummers, headdresses, and acrobats distilled centuries of culture into a vibrant hour-long show—equal parts history lesson and spectacle. The interpretation sheet was welcome, if occasionally confusing.
Top tip: Book the dance show online (4,500 LKR) in advance to get a decent seat near the stage. Kandy Lake Club is a 30-minute walk uphill from the city centre, so use a Pickme tuk-tuk and ask them to return after the show.
Day 7 – Tea Trails to Nuwara Eliya
Driving Time: 3hrs to Nuwara Eliya
Leaving Kandy’s bustle behind, Rohan steered us into the misty hills of Tea Country. A visit to a plantation is practically mandatory, so we stopped at Blue Field Tea Plantation for a fascinating crash course in tea-making with century-old machinery still clanking away, followed by a tasting of six varieties that redefined “a decent cuppa.”
By afternoon, we reached Nuwara Eliya, a colonial favourite where cooler air, golf courses, and rose gardens linger from the British era. A stroll around town, sending postcards from Sri Lanka’s oldest post office in a fit of retro tourism and a throwback cocktail at the Grand Hotel, served by red-lapelled waiters straight out of the 1920s, rounded off the day in genteel style. We stayed on the outskirts, where Rohan picked us up each morning and used Pickme tuk-tuks to get into town.
Travel tip:
It’s significantly cooler here than in Kandy or the coast, so bring a jumper for evening wanderings.
Time for week two of your ultimate 2-week itinerary in Sri Lanka…
Day 8 – Horton Plains and World’s End
Driving Time: Approx. 1.5 hours each way
Another day, another pre-dawn start. Horton Plains National Park, about 90 minutes from Nuwara Eliya, offers yet another face of Sri Lanka: rolling grasslands, sambar deer, and the jaw-dropping viewpoint known as World’s End. The 10 km loop is an easy walk for anyone with basic fitness, ending at a sheer 870-metre drop where the world truly seems to stop.
Arrive early, by 10 a.m., clouds often erase the view. With that said, don’t assume your trip is a bust if you arrive to be greeted by a wall of dense fog. We arrived in such conditions, morale fading fast, until the mist lifted half an hour later like a theatre curtain. The panorama below, with tiny houses, roads, and trees scattered like Legos, was worth every early alarm, as was a little Schadenfreude for the large tour group that had lost patience and left minutes previously.
After lunch back in town, we visited Lover’s Leap waterfall and the nearby Victoria Park before dinner at contemporary Themperadu, which fuses classic Sri Lankan flavours with Asian and western influences.
Travel tip:
Some drivers avoid Horton Plains’ narrow roads; ask in advance if they’ll subcontract to a local SUV. Otherwise, your guesthouse in Nuwara Eliya can likely arrange transport – they’ll often throw in a picnic breakfast to eat at the viewpoint too.
Day 9 – Train to Ella
Travel Distance: 20-minute drive to Nanu-Oya station, followed by approx. 3-hour train ride to Ella
A 2-week itinerary in Sri Lanka wouldn’t be complete without sampling the countries most famous train route, so we hopped on from Nanu Oya (a short drive from Nuwara Eliya) to Ella. We booked seats in advance through the Sri Lanka Railways website, where seats can be reserved up to 30 days in advance (worth doing in peak season as they sell out and you don’t want to be standing in a non-reserved carriage.)
The journey earns every bit of its reputation: tea-carpeted hills give way to fragrant pine forests, and locals wave from open doors as the train clanks past villages and valleys seemingly frozen in time. With carriage doors left open, you can lean out and drink it all in, there can’t be many better moving viewpoints on the planet.
We arrived in Ella mid-afternoon and rewarded ourselves with a massage, drinks, and dinner at the appropriately named Chill Bar in the town’s lively centre, unashamedly touristy but great fun. The town is packed full of homestays, including our choice for accommodation, with airy rooms and fresh breakfasts very welcome.
Travel tip:
There’s little difference between first- and second-class reserved seats; second is livelier and better for meeting locals (and frankly, the best views are through the open doors at the end of each carriage).
Day 10 – Diyaluma Falls and Little Adam’s Peak
Driving Time: Approx. 1-hour drive each way to Diyaluma Falls
Ella’s hills hum with waterfalls, but Diyaluma Falls (entry fee 350 LKR) is the showstopper. A one-hour drive (or tuk-tuk ride) from Ella, followed by a 30-minute hike, brings you to a series of pools spilling over a 220-metre drop, an infinity view good enough to grace any luxury resort. Climb carefully to higher tiers for even grander vistas (and a little vertigo). We called at Kuda Ravana falls on the way back, which lies just off the roadside – pleasant but overcrowded, we knew we’d made the right call.
After a delicious lunch back in Ella (Rotti Hut in the town centre did the best roti in all of Sri Lanka), we tackled Little Adam’s Peak, a short 20-minute uphill walk offering one of Sri Lanka’s best sunset panoramas. It’s part of the 98 Acres resort complex, popular with the Flashpacker crowd, but once you avoid the theme-park style hoopla, the views match the best of anything in Sri Lanka.
Travel tip:
Leave Ella by 8:30 am to enjoy Diyaluma’s pools before the crowds. Water shoes are a must, those rocks are slicker than they look.
Day 11 – Drive to Mirissa
Driving Time: 4 hours’ drive to Mirissa
Before leaving Ella, we stopped at the famous Nine Arches Bridge (a 5-minute drive or 20-minute walk out of Ella to the trailhead, then a leisurely 25-minute stroll to the bridge), a Victorian masterpiece hidden in jungle greenery and straight out of an Indiana Jones finale.
Time your visit for a passing train (the 9:45am is ideal) and grab a cold drink from a nearby café for the perfect photo op.
This bridge is one of the most popular things to witness on a 2-week itinerary in Sri Lanka – don’t miss it!
Then began the longest drive of our trip, a spectacular descent from misty hills to sun-soaked coast (that was the plan, albeit the clouds descended for us!) Mirissa welcomed us with warm air, golden beaches, and the undeniable urge to slow down. We checked into a breezy seaside hotel, spent the afternoon wading out to Parrot Rock, catching the views at Coconut Tree Hill and joining a snorkelling trip (USD c. $20) to meet Mirissa’s resident turtles (up close, but respectfully). We opted for an airy room close to the 1st floor pool at Mimoza, which was a wonderful place to relax after a lengthy journey.
Cocktails and curry at Ceylon Curry House proved the perfect pairing for a lazy evening.
Travel tip:
Choose a snorkel operator with sustainable practices, no touching, no chasing, and with smaller groups (reviews are normally a giveaway which operators actually walk the walk!)
Travel tip:
When discussing a curry, ‘Medium spicy’ by Sri Lankan standards is capable of blowing most Westerners’ heads off.
Day 12 – Galle
Driving Time: 1.5 hours to Galle
Yet another world awaited us in Galle. The city’s famous fort feels like a small 17th century European town teleported to the tropics – think cobbled streets, Dutch architecture, and old garrisons turned into chic boutiques and cafes.
The weather here wasn’t kind to us (translated, we experienced a monsoon for about six hours) so our walking tour of the fort and old city (USD $15) was somewhat dampened but it was a fascinating glimpse into the many cultures that called Galle home and left their mark on the city’s architecture and cuisine.
Once shoes had been dried, we ventured out to wander the streets of the fort at night, which with the rain reflected off the cobblestones felt even more magical. We stayed in the Seven Pillars, a colonial-era masterpiece with some of the most attentive service we experienced anywhere in Sri Lanka. All the main sights were within walking distance.
Of all the places we visited in Sri Lanka, Galle is the one I wish we had stayed longer. Had we done so, we’d have been following these suggestions.
Top tip: Rain aside, strolling the fort walls is best done early morning or at sunset, as there’s precious little shade!
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Sri Lanka. Simply open the Google Map on your device and have all my recommendations at the touch of your fingertips.
Day 13 – Colombo City Highlights
Driving Time: 1.5hrs to Colombo
We debated skipping Colombo, as many travellers do on a 2-week itinerary Sri Lanka, but it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. After saying goodbye to Rohan and checking into Marino Beach (in name only – the British-built railway cleaved the actual beach from the city!), we took a dip in the Olympic-length rooftop infinity pool then got on the walking shoes for one last exploration – this time focused on the highlights of both Colombo’s heritage and modern sides.
Highlights included Independence Square, the National Museum (for one last culture hit), and the dazzling Gangaramaya Temple, a glorious jumble of statues, relics, and what felt like several thousand terraced Buddhas. We ended the day at Galle Face Green, where locals flew kites and vendors served isso wade (prawn fritters) as the sun dropped into the Indian Ocean. A perfect final chapter.
Travel tip:
Skip expensive hotel transfers for your flight home. Book a PickMe ride to the airport instead, cheaper, faster, and refreshingly air-conditioned. Allow at least an hour, more during rush hour.
Voila! That’s your 2-week itinerary for Sri Lanka!
Thank you for reading!
Global Traveller Phil Thomas is a freelance travel writer, based in UK, with over 110 countries under his belt. You can follow Phil’s adventures through his blog, Someone Else’s Country and via his Instagram, Facebook and Blueskychannels.
Get lifetime access to my endless hours of research and time spent on the ground finding the best places to eat, drink, relax and explore in Sri Lanka. Simply open the Google Map on your device and have all my recommendations at the touch of your fingertips.
