This trip to Italy, let’s just say, came with its share of adventures, and not all of them were the kind I’d happily repeat. On my first trip without my husband and kids, a getaway I had carefully planned to share with a close girlfriend, I never imagined that a throat infection would land me in the hospital just days into the trip. By the time I was discharged, my girlfriend had left town, and what began as a girls’ trip unexpectedly turned into a solo adventure.
And that’s when I learned a lesson I probably should have known by now: we can plan all we want, but the real art of travel is being willing to surrender to whatever comes our way.
I’ve traveled to Italy many times, but I’ll admit Vicenza was never on my list. Then my girlfriend invited me to stay in her new apartment in the town where she grew up, and I couldn’t resist. My kids are older, everyone could survive without me for a few days, and for the first time in a long time, I felt ready to leave everyone behind and simply go.
What I discovered was a city that completely surprised me.
Vicenza, tucked between Verona and Venice, is one of Italy’s often overlooked cities. Known for its centuries-old goldsmithing tradition, it has earned a reputation as Italy’s jewelry capital. But beautiful jewelry isn’t the only thing that sparkles here.
Prices in Vicenza are shockingly reasonable. Think €2 for a latte, €3 for a prosecco, and €94 for a three-course meal for three, including appetizers, mains, and wine. The streets are immaculate, the locals carry themselves with an effortless pride and sophistication, and at nearly any hour of the day, you’ll find Vicentini doing what Italians do best: sitting at a café, sipping something delicious and savoring the moment.
At the beginning, as a former New Yorker, I initially needed just a tiny bit more umph.
But perhaps that was the point of this trip. By the time my visit wrapped up, I had learned to slow down, take one day at a time, nap during siesta, and let each day unfold on its own terms.
My carefully planned itinerary went out the window, and in its place came something I didn’t realize I needed: the freedom to simply see where the day, and Italy, would take me.
After eighteen hours of traveling across the world from San Diego, you can imagine I was pretty wiped. But there was no way I was going to crawl into bed on my first night in Italy without an authentic Italian meal. Priorities.
Contra is a charming little tavern in the heart of Vicenza that somehow manages to turn out delicious Italian food from a tiny kitchen tucked right behind the bar; no sprawling restaurant kitchen required. The calamari salad and mushroom ravioli were both phenomenal, and exactly what I needed after a very long day of planes, airports, and travel.
It was the perfect way to kick off what would become a full week of what I thought would be me eating my way through Italy.
Hit the pedestrian-only streets as the city begins to wake up and let the morning sunlight work its magic, casting a golden glow on Vicenza’s gorgeous architecture. Then do what I consider an essential part of any Italian morning: plant yourself at a café and people-watch.
I chose Caffè Vero for a perfectly refreshing caffè latte freddo con ghiaccio– basically, an Italian iced latte and happily watched the city come to life around me as I sipped slowly.
After lingering over your caffè latte, keep exploring the winding alleys, historic sites, and beautiful architecture. Or better yet, forget the itinerary altogether. Get a little lost weaving in and out of the streets, ducking down whatever alley catches your eye, and see where you end up. Sometimes the best way to experience a city is to have absolutely no agenda.
Stop at a pasticceria for a freshly baked cornetto al cioccolato because no Italian morning is complete without one. I was immediately drawn to the charm of Caffe Pigafetta, tucked into a quiet alley with lovely outdoor seating. And the cornetto? Absolutely delicious. Exactly the kind of little indulgence that makes wandering around Vicenza so much fun.
Walk, walk, and walk some more. There is so much to see and so many little moments worth stopping to appreciate. From the river and charming bridges to colorful buildings and hidden corners, nearly every turn in Vicenza feels photo-worthy. My advice? Keep walking and let the city surprise you.
Time for an Aperol Spritz break! After all that walking, you’ve definitely earned it. SignorVino offers a welcoming, upscale vibe with plenty of shade, making it perfect for settling in with a refreshing spritz and doing one of my favorite things in Italy: watching the locals stroll by.
It’s time for lunch! There are endless dining options in Vicenza, and we were immediately lured in by Garzadori’s gorgeous entrance, charming patio, and sleek, modern interior. The presentation was beautiful, but unfortunately, the food didn’t quite live up to the looks. Even I can’t always get it right!
But the company was great; there was plenty of vino, lots of laughs, and at the end of the day, that counts for a lot. So it’s all good!
There are plenty of quality, Italian-made shops throughout Vicenza, so be sure to leave a little extra room in your suitcase! One of my favorite finds was a handmade hat from an authentic cappelleria that has been making fine hates for 127 years- Mode Palladio Cappelleria. Not exactly a necessity, but when you find the perfect Italian hat, you go with it.
A sunset aperitivo at Basilica Palladiana is a must. Settle in with a drink and take in the sweeping views over the rooftops of Vicenza, with the Dolomites stretching across the horizon. It’s a pretty spectacular backdrop for evening drinks!
If you’re lucky, you might even catch a concert happening below while you’re enjoying the view from above. Talk about aperitivo with a soundtrack.
Finally, end your day the Italian way: with good food, plenty of vino, and lots of laughs with friends. Oca Bianca Da Ugo is a charming trattoria tucked into the heart of Vicenza, offering delicious food in an intimate, welcoming setting. The perfect place to linger over dinner, swap stories, and toast to a day well spent.
Start your day with a visit to Panificio Gemo, a neighborhood bakery that pumps out the most spectacular breads, desserts, focaccia, and pizzette. The moment you walk through the door, the intoxicating scent of freshly baked bread, buttery pastries, and warm focaccia hits you, and suddenly breakfast becomes less of a meal and more of an absolute necessity.
Locals love this place, so expect a short line, plenty of Italian bantering, and the delicious dilemma of trying to decide what to order. My advice? Don’t overthink it. Follow your nose.
Then stroll on over to a neighborhood favorite, Gran Caffe. This popular meeting spot is buzzing early, so expect plenty of people, lively conversation, and that unmistakable Italian morning energy. Luckily, there’s a large outdoor seating area that spills right onto the pedestrian cobblestone streets, so you’ll likely be able to snag a table, settle in, and watch the neighborhood come to life around you.
After your caffeine fix paired with your baked treat, meander through the streets and take in the beautiful architecture. The colors of the buildings are so pretty, and each one seems to have its own personality, from Venetian windows and oversized doors to charming verandas and Juliet balconies.
I think one of my favorite things to do in Vicenza is simply to walk without a plan. Admire the sights, check out a random café or bar when something catches your eye, and just take it easy. No agenda, no schedule. Just enjoy the city and see where the day takes you.
So, this is where the trip took a very sour turn.
I felt a sore throat coming on during the last day or so, but I chalked it up to being run down from the long flight and all the travel. Then, suddenly, the pain became so intense that I asked my friends to drive me to the emergency room.
After sitting there for two hours without being seen, we finally decided to leave. I was convinced I had strep throat and figured I could find a doctor the next day.
Instead, I spent the entire day in agonizing pain until a doctor was finally able to see me later that evening. He ruled out strep, the flu, and COVID, but clearly something was wrong. He sent me to an ENT the following morning, where I got the news I definitely wasn’t expecting: I had an abscess in my throat and needed to be hospitalized immediately.
Without much warning, or any time at all to process what was happening, I went from vacation mode to a whirlwind of exams and scans, and then straight into a hospital room, where I would spend the next three days.
Not exactly the Italian adventure I had planned.
When the unexpected transpires, especially across the Atlantic, things can get unnerving.
My friends were supposed to head to France while I was in the hospital (I had plenned to be in Venic while they were away), and so, as luck would have it, I was suddenly all by myself.
Let me tell you about Italian hospitals.
Some of the doctors had a very traditional, authoritative style that challenged my instinct to ask questions and advocate for myself. I did it anyway.
Patients are packed four to a room, with no curtains separating the beds or offering much in the way of privacy. Insider tip: for about €200 a night, you can upgrade to a spacious private room.
The female nurses and doctors were fantastic (the male ones could use a lesson in bedside manners).
Most of the staff members do not speak English. Thank goodness for Google Translate!
And then there was the food.
As I flew across the Atlantic to Italy, I dreamt about all the delicious meals I would consume on thi trip. Never in my wildest imagination did I think I would spend five consecutive days eating nothing but vanilla pudding (delicious, by the way!), yogurt, and soup.
With all those hours in bed, I had plenty of time to think. And think. And think some more.
Why is this happening to me? What was the point of this trip? Why did G-d have me fly all the way across the country just to get sick on the second day of my vacation?
Eventually, I came to one answer: surrender.
I had spent hours meticulously planning the perfect trip, a trip that fell apart, along with my health, without any warning.
I was alone in a hospital, with no friends or family by my side to see me through. I learned that I could actually do it alone, which, had you asked me beforehand, I would have said was impossible.
I was in a foreign hospital, unable to speak Italian at the level of sophistication required to discuss my medical condition. Most of the nurses didn’t speak English. Things were done differently, and sometimes seemingly backwards, to the way they would have been handled in the United States.
There was no point in fighting the circumstances or crying over them (although, believe me, I cried plenty). If I wanted to recover and heal, I had to stop fighting what was happening and surrender to it.
I binged Netflix. I napped. I stopped feeling sorry for myself. And I ate a truly impressive amount of Italian vanilla pudding.
Three days later, I was released from the hospital.
Maybe this wasn’t the trip I had planned. But perhaps it was the trip I needed.
What a relief to be discharged and to have at least a little hope of salvaging some of my lost vacation. Still under strict orders, with a nurse visiting twice a day for intramuscular antibiotic shots, plenty of pain medication, and no solid food quite yet, I was simply thrilled to be out of the hospital and back on the lively sidewalks of Vicenza.
I practically skipped into Gelateria Artigiano Palladiano, giddy and completely childlike, and ordered a small cup of crema and tiramisu- “half and half,” as they call it. I devoured every silky, creamy bite, which not only soothed my still-tender throat but also made my palate very, very happy.
After five days of pudding, yogurt, and soup, this was the perfect way to break my fast and ease my way back into the artisanal Italian cuisine I had been dreaming about.
Next, I walked over to Caffe Natura for a caffè latte freddo con ghiaccio (iced latte), some much-needed people-watching, and a chance to rethink the itinerary for the rest of my stay. After all, the original plan had gone out the window!
I especially loved the vibe at this café, with its inviting interior and large outdoor patio overlooking the city’s Duomo. It was the perfect spot to sit, sip, watch the world go by, and figure out what I could realistically squeeze into the few days I had left.
Revived with gelato and a caffe latte, I decided to slowly stroll through the streets and weave through the alleys to see where I would end up. Some spots that piqued my interest: the stunning main square / Piazza dei Signori, and then some well-deserved retail therapy at:
Amelia (clothing), FrancoP & Sons (high-end jewelry), Nana (clothing), Intimissimi (lingerie). It’s hard not to shop in Italy when the quality of everything is so darn good. And clearly, I wasn’t about to let a little thing like being hospitalized derail my shopping plans!
Fun fact: my apartment for the week is on the third floor of the building in the bottom-right photo.
My last stop was dinner at Angolo Palladio, where I spontaneously chose a table based entirely on its inviting outdoor seating and stunning piazzetta location. And what did I order? A cold gazpacho soup.
Gazpacho is not exactly what I would normally seek out on an Italian vacation, but… I surrender. And honestly, it was surprisingly delicious!
As the sun began to retreat and the lights around the piazzetta started to glow, the entire mood of the evening shifted. I sat at my table listening to the chatter of the patrons around me, watching the light fade from the sky, and taking it all in.
Just days earlier, I had been lying in a hospital bed wondering how I was going to get through this. Now I was sitting outside, eating dinner in Vicenza, looking up at the sky and feeling an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
Gratitude that I was out of the hospital. Gratitude that I was healing. And, most of all, gratitude that I had made it through.
Sometimes surrender doesn’t mean giving up. Sometimes it means letting go of the plan, accepting where you are, and being grateful for the moment you’re in.
Begin your day with a mandatory stop at a new café; today’s pick: Hosen Specialty Coffee & Bakery. With its sleek, minimalist design and unwavering focus on perfectly made espresso drinks and beautifully baked goods, it’s no surprise that Hosen draws a steady stream of locals. Within ten minutes of my early-morning arrival, the place was packed. I was especially happy to make Hosen my first stop for solid food. I managed half a pain au chocolat, and it was just heavenly. I mean, look at this presentation!
Next, continue your daily ritual with an aimless walk after coffee. In Vicenza, every turn seems to reveal another appealing corner, another piazza, another reason to keep wandering. The trick is to let the city guide you.
Villa Rotonda, built in the 16th century, is one of those places that makes you stop and stare. Perched above the countryside, with its beautiful symmetry and four grand sides opening to the views, it feels almost too perfect to be real and is absolutely worth the visit. Insider’s Tip: Tours in English need to be scheduled ten days in advance, but you can download a self-guided tour in English that equally does the trick!
For a beautiful walk in solitude among grapevines and farms, plug Santuario della Madonna di Monte Berico into your navigation and get ready for about a thirty-minute walk from Villa Rotonda to a stunning panoramic view overlooking Vicenza. Be warned: there’s plenty of steep uphill walking. About halfway through, I realized this probably wasn’t the best spontaneous decision for me, having been released from the hospital just the day before. When I started to feel tired, I found a bench, sipped some water, caught my breath, and repeated my new mantra: I surrender. And I’m so happy I didn’t turn around. Not only was the walk to the church itself beautiful and peaceful, but the views waiting at the top were absolutely worth the climb, and so was the leisurely walk back into central Vicenza.
I’m kind of obsessed with arches, and somehow I seem to be bumping into them everywhere in Vicenza!
After all that walking, you’ll want a big lunch. Unfortunately, my big lunch was gelato, as I’m still not quite up for solids, but my gelato from Capo de Latte Gelato had BIG flavor. I was very content with the creaminess and fresh ingredients in my “half and half” of nocciola and cioccolato fondente. And don’t feel bad for me- I get to be in Italy, eating all the gelato I want!
Vicenza is famous for the Teatro Olimpico, a breathtaking theater constructed in the 1500s as the world’s first indoor masonry theater. Simply sitting in the magnificent room in silence is powerful – make sure to soak in the meticulous details that surround the space.
Following a nice, long siesta, I headed out for a late dinner at Taverna 4 e dueterzi, an intimate trattoria that whips up seasonal dishes in its open kitchen. I was so grateful to be ordering my first solid meal in days, but I still needed to be kind to my throat, so I opted for the pillowy homemade gnocchi with chanterelle mushrooms and lemon thyme. Gosh, it felt so good to eat again, even though I could only get through four gnocchi…
There is no shortage of cafes in central Vicenza. I love my daily routine of discovering a new place to sip on my latte each morning. Alle Mucherie is tucked away on a quiet side street hugged by gorgeous architecture. Modern, simple, and with an emphasis on great espresso, you’ll leave satiated, happy, and ready for another adventure ahead.
Luckily, Vicenza is close to so many attractive cities to explore. With plenty of options to choose from, I ultimately decided on a day trip to Asolo and Bassano del Grappa. This trip has certainly taught me to surrender; all my carefully made plans have been tossed out the window, and I’ve learned to wake up and spontaneously decide what I feel like doing that day. And surprisingly, today led me to two of Italy’s most charming little towns.
Asolo, known as the “City of a Hundred Horizons,” is famous for its panoramic views of the surrounding hills, plains, and distant Dolomites. Its beauty has attracted writers and poets over the years, including American poet Robert Browning. Sights worth seeing include Piazza Garibaldi and the medieval fortress, La Rocca. Mostly, though, you guessed it: my favorite part was getting lost in the little alleys and wandering aimlessly, especially on a Monday when I practically had the village all to myself.
The twenty-minute uphill walk to Rocca di Asolo was quite challenging for me. The antibiotics I’m on have been making me weaker than usual, and I almost turned around halfway up. But then I tapped into all of you, my readers, cheering me on! I was determined to make it to the top and deliver those promising views to you. And so, I made it!
The walk itself was quite stunning. In complete solitude, with not a single passerby in sight, I made my way through the gorgeous countryside along a mostly shaded path. Honestly, the journey to the top was almost as beautiful as the views waiting for me there.
Finally, I made it to the top, where I was rewarded with the fortress and panoramic views stretching across the farmland and vineyards below.
Once you’ve soaked in the views, make your way back into town and cool down with a creamy & dreamy gelato at GILDA. My pick? Coffee. Yum!
You know Asolo is something special when Cipriani has planted itself there. Head over for lunch and enjoy this beautiful property tucked away off the beaten path, with lush gardens and a lovely outdoor patio. I truly loved my afternoon stop here and had a hard time pulling myself away.
Eating is still a bit burdensome, so I opted for easy-to-swallow foods: eggs in a red sauce and gazpacho. I have to say, both were surprisingly excellent! Especially paired with a glass of wine, which I could finally enjoy now that I’m no longer on painkillers.
It’s always a good idea to take a walk after a meal, and Asolo is definitely an inviting place to stroll. Isn’t it just so pretty??
Half an hour away lies another striking little town, Bassano del Grappa, a breathtaking town in Northern Italy that hugs the Brenta River. Larger than Asolo, it still maintains its charm, with a couple of piazzas lined with bustling cafés and historical sites. You’ll find yourself just walking and walking and walking, taking in the beauty surrounding you at every turn!
Most notable in Bassano, in my opinion, is the bridge- Ponte degli Alpini. The views from here are quite majestic, and I spent at least thirty minutes simply gazing out at the scenery.
Wrap up your day trip with a quick aperitivo at Danieli. You’ll love the lively atmosphere with pumping music and a whimsical patio. Mostly, you’ll love looking onto the piazza and watching people walk by.
Over the countless times I’ve been to Italy, not once have I ever dined at a Mexican restaurant while in the boot-shaped country. I mean, why would I? But my friends and the locals raved about La Cocinita del Covo in Vicenza, and since everything else on this trip has been topsy-turvy, I figured, what the heck…
My mezcal paloma was excellent, and so were the Tacos do Nopal filled with pan-sautéed nopal (cactus), onion, and corn, topped with a spicy, crispy carrot garnish, and served with taquera salsa. Coupled with the laid-back atmosphere, this was a win-win.
Caveat: San Diego’s tacos still win.
What started as a completely unplanned day turned into one of my favorite days of the trip. I wandered the quiet streets of Asolo, pushed myself up to La Rocca for those gorgeous panoramic views, stopped for gelato, lingered over an unexpectedly wonderful lunch at Cipriani, and then made my way to Bassano del Grappa, where I strolled the piazzas and spent at least thirty minutes simply taking in the views from Ponte degli Alpini.
And perhaps that’s the biggest lesson this trip has given me: sometimes, we don’t need a plan at all. I had carefully mapped out this entire trip, and yet illness forced me to throw almost everything out the window. What I’ve discovered is that there can be something incredibly freeing about waking up, seeing how you feel, and simply deciding where the day takes you – I mean, Mexican food in Italy would have never made it on my itinerary!
Today, it took me to two little towns I may never have thought to visit otherwise. And honestly? Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you never planned.
In the spirit of discovering a new café each morning during my stay in Vicenza, this morning I tried Magazino del Caffe. I liked that it was less crowded than some of the other cafés I’d enjoyed and that they served a side of jam with my croissant. No butter, though… I guess that’s too French?
I sipped my caffè latte, wondering what the day ahead would bring. By now, I’ve pretty much mastered the art of surrendering, so I’m simply looking forward to seeing what each new day has in store for me.
Walking back to my apartment around 9:00 am to find the market set up right below was an unexpected treat. Stalls were set up early, overflowing with fresh flowers, cheese, dairy products, and meats. Italy is full of surprises!
I wanted to see what all the buzz was about at Da Renzo, where locals line up inside and spill onto the sidewalk to enjoy their famous tartines. The hype is absolutely warranted- I ordered two egg salad tartines and one artichoke one, and the combination of fresh ingredients, soft bread, and homemade mayonnaise was nothing short of otherworldly.
After getting clearance from my doctor later in the afternoon to leave Vicenza, I booked a last-minute dreamy escape to Venice. It is so unlike me to arrange an entire trip just one hour before a driver arrived, but this newfound thrill of living spontaneously had completely captured me!
I remembered loving Venice from previous visits, but I had forgotten just how deeply I love this city. From the moment I stepped into my private water taxi (€70), a smile was planted on my face. The City of Canals feels like pure wanderlust; a place of romance, winding alleys, and unexpected corners that invite you to get lost and enjoy the moment.
I began my visit with a tour of the Jewish Ghetto, which holds a remarkable place in history as the first Jewish ghetto in the world. We visited two historic synagogues built in the 1500s, which have miraculously withstood the test of time and continue to serve the small Jewish community of approximately 400 people that remains today.
The Levantine Synagogue (top) is a Sephardic synagogue, while the Spanish Synagogue (bottom) was built by the Marrano Spanish community. Both are strikingly beautiful, each carrying centuries of history within their walls.
From the Jewish Ghetto, there is plenty to explore on foot. Wander along the less crowded canal walk of Fondamenta della Misericordia and slowly make your way toward Dorsoduro.
Of course, a Venetian stroll calls for an aperitivo and some serious people-watching. There are endless options for sipping and staring, so I randomly chose Dersut simply because it was less crowded.
Once you’ve rested your feet, lace up your shoes and simply keep walking through the tiny, narrow alleys that open into beautiful courtyards and hidden piazzas. You truly cannot make a wrong turn in Venice.
When you return to a city you’ve visited before, there is less pressure to check every major sight off the “to see list” and more freedom to wander, get lost, and take in the beauty at a slower pace. This visit to Venice offered exactly that: simplicity, unhurried moments, and the chance to savor every corner of this magical city.
From the moment my water taxi pulled up to the entrance, I knew this was money well spent. Set inside one of Venice’s eight historic palazzos, and still home to the original family, this breathtaking property is nothing short of spectacular.
With just twenty-four guest rooms, Aman Venice offers an unparalleled sense of privacy. There are countless quiet corners throughout the property where you can escape, unwind, and feel as though you have the entire palazzo to yourself. The service is impeccable, and from check-in to check-out, you will be treated like royalty.
And the rooms… perfectly designed to make you want to stay forever. No detail has been overlooked, and the bed… heaven.
In fact, the property is so stunning that instead of watching the sunset by the Rialto Bridge, I chose to enjoy it on the hotel’s private rooftop deck with a glass of prosecco. I had the deck and the views all to myself.
My first day in Venice could not have gone any better: the weather, the energy, the breeze, the food, the sights, the people. All of it.
For dinner, I decided to stay on the property because Aman Venice is honestly designed in a way that makes you never want to leave. The concierge arranged a canal-side table for one at Arva.
Before this trip, I had never dined alone at a restaurant. Not once. And yet, here I was, sitting solo at a fine dining restaurant for a two-and-a-half-hour meal, completely content and loving every second of it.
As expected, the food was superb, as was the attentive service. I started with crispy puff pastry served with marinated beetroot and noble goat cheese fondue, followed by cappellaccio filled with pappa al pomodoro, basil sauce, and Parmesan foam. I finished with a classic tiramisu, all paired with a perfectly crafted French 75.
A dinner I once would have avoided became one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
If you happen to wake up early, as I do, make your way toward the Rialto Fish Market around 7:00 am and watch the city slowly come alive. This is when you get to experience a side of Venice that most visitors miss- the quiet canals, the locals beginning their day, and the streets almost entirely to yourself.
With no crowds and barely a tourist in sight, the early morning hours offer a rare opportunity to see the authentic rhythm of this magical city. If you can, set your alarm and experience Venice before the rest of the world wakes up.
For breakfast, I headed back to Arva because I couldn’t get enough of this decadent property. My leisurely two-hour breakfast (I mean, look at this dining room!) was exactly the kind of slow, indulgent morning I had been craving.
It included a freshly baked croissant with an assortment of homemade jams, sourdough baguette with creamy burrata and roasted tomatoes, two perfectly poached eggs, and two glasses of freshly squeezed pineapple, carrot, and apple juice.
After five days of barely eating, I was definitely making up for lost time!
Breakfast ended with a thunderstorm, which obviously called for the only logical thing: a bubble bath in the room’s deep soaking tub. Honestly, I couldn’t have planned a more perfect rainy morning.
Once the skies cleared, the Aman’s concierge arranged a water taxi to take me to the Arsenale (80 euros for a private ride that saved me forty minutes of walking and provided breathtaking views along the canals).
I was especially excited to be in Venice during the Biennale– think of it as the Venetian Art Basel. Upon arrival, the line was so daunting that I almost turned around. But the moment the doors opened, visitors quickly dispersed throughout the space, and somehow it felt as though I had the entire exhibition almost to myself.
There are truly no words to describe the scale of this massive warehouse, filled with extraordinary works from artists around the world. Twenty-five countries were represented in the pavilions, including Israel, which had been uninvited the previous year. Thankfully, this year’s exhibition welcomed Israel’s return.
Walking through the rooms was a humbling experience. Humans are capable of creating so much beauty, imagination, and meaning.
I purposefully avoided the typical tourist traps; there are plenty of areas in Venice that aren’t consumed by thousands of people squeezing through alleys and along the promenades. Places like Fondamenta della Misericordia, Dorsoduro, and Cannaregio offer a much more authentic and leisurely experience.
I spent most of my time wandering away from the crowds. Today, I made my way through San Marco, where I stopped to admire the historic square, take a few photos, and chat with the Polizia (couldn’t resist!). Then, I continued my walk back to the Aman.
After all, when you splurge on a property like this, you’ll want to soak in every moment of it.
For lunch, I chose Arva again – the garden overlooking the canal is so inviting, and the food last night left me dreaming of more. I’m getting pretty good at this solo dining!
The grilled octopus over Russian salad made me gasp, and the risotto ( I mean… that generous portion of caviar!), no joke, made me moan out loud. It might just be one of the best dishes I’ve consumed all year.
And here I am: a very happy solo girl, traveling alone, eating alone, and doing all the things that just two weeks earlier I never thought I could. Maybe solo travel isn’t just something I survived- it might actually be something I embrace in the future.
Sadly, after a twenty-six-hour visit in Venice, it was time to head back to Vicenza for my final night in Italy. I finally reconnected with my San Diego friends and ended my week of solo adventures.
Although this unexpected alone time gave me space to clear my mind and reconnect with myself, it was also wonderful to be surrounded by others again, sharing great cocktails, delicious food, and plenty of laughs.
We began the evening at Zest, a super-cool, whimsical bar with a trendy nightclub feel. The cocktail menu is creative, and you’re invited to choose between a “sinner” or “saint” drink menu. Naturally, I went for sinner, and my chosen sin was lust (see the glass featuring the female figure).
Each expertly crafted cocktail was beautifully presented, making the drinks themselves part of the conversation and the experience.
Next, we headed to Pizza dei Signori for incredible pizza. Like, really, really good…
We shared several pies straight from the wood-burning oven, and I sampled three of the vegetarian options: margherita, four cheese, and buffalo cheese. I honestly couldn’t pick a favorite- I’m not even sure why I felt like I had to!
The space itself is just as impressive, with a stunning modern design that beautifully incorporates the original arches and historic masonry. Great pizza, gorgeous surroundings, and the perfect atmosphere for a memorable final night in Vicenza.
Heathrow Airport had canceled hundreds of flights, and I woke up this morning to the terrifying possibility that my flight from Venice to Heathrow had been canceled. At this point, I just wanted to get home. Tomorrow night is Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, and I have guests arriving to celebrate the start of a new year together.
My driver picked me up at 6:00 am while the city was still asleep. In the chaos of an early morning departure, I somehow managed to leave my cell phone behind in his car. Luckily, he spotted it, turned around, and found me at the check-in counter just in time to return it. One more unexpected twist in a trip that had already given me plenty!
This trip to Italy had so many unexpected turns- some challenging, some magical, and many that I never could have predicted. But one thing is certain: I will always remember this trip, mostly because of how much I grew from it.
For a woman who had pretty much never been alone for more than 48 hours, I took my first trip abroad without my family. I traveled solo for a significant part of it. I was hospitalized in a foreign country without family or friends by my side, navigating a language barrier and an unfamiliar medical system. I dined alone. I explored alone. I did all the things I once believed I couldn’t do, and not only did I survive them, I actually enjoyed them. (Well… except for the hospital stay. Although I have to admit, that Italian vanilla pudding was pretty good!)
Arrivederci, Italia. Thank you for the lessons, the beauty, the unexpected adventures, and the reminder that I am capable of so much more than I ever imagined.
San Diego, here I come- not as the same woman who left, but as someone a little stronger, a little braver, and a lot more willing to see where life takes me when I don’thave a plan.
