The third post in my Paris series: a slow morning, a picnic in Luxembourg Gardens, a Seine dinner cruise, and a nightcap at a future White Lotus filming location!
A Seine Dinner Cruise in Paris
After a very full and late Eiffel Tower day, I got a later start the next morning.
Breakfast was becoming a favorite part of my routine: croissants, fruit, and, this time, the most amazing crème brûlée French toast. It had a sugary crust on top that cracked when I cut into it.
We tried more than once during the trip to go inside Notre-Dame, but the line was always a mile long and we weren’t organized enough to get a reservation in time. I loved seeing it from outside, and I’ll save the interior for my next trip.
Wandering Through Saint-Germain-des-Prés
From the hotel, it was easy to cross the Seine and spend the day wandering around Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This was one of those days when the wandering was the itinerary.
There were beautiful little streets lined with shops.
I stopped at a street market and bought a delicate ring, browsed French scarves in a secondhand store, and wandered into bookstores.
And the cafés! I couldn’t get enough of their flower-covered awnings.
A Baguette Picnic in Luxembourg Gardens
Since breakfast had been late, a classic French baguette picnic sounded perfect for lunch.
I picked up a ham and brie baguette with vegetables, and it was everything I wanted it to be. We took our lunch to the Luxembourg Gardens.
It was a hot day, so finding a bit of shade felt especially good. I took photos in front of the grand Palais du Luxembourg, the building in the gardens that houses the French Senate.
At the end of the afternoon, we took the bus back to the hotel. It was so much faster and easier than I’d expected! I had a little nap, recharged my phone, and changed for the evening.
Dinner Aboard L’Estello
I wanted to do a dinner cruise on the Seine, and choosing the boat took some research. I looked at the splurge-worthy Ducasse cruise, but landed on L’Estello by Le Calife for the balance of a lovely dinner and a price that felt more reasonable. (It was about €105.) They also have a later one at 8:30 p.m. but I was glad to have chosen the earlier one so we had time for another stop afterwards (and lots of natural light for photos!)
We walked toward the Louvre and crossed the Pont des Arts, once famous for its love locks. The locks had been removed because of their weight, but the bridge was still a beautiful place to stop.
A welcome glass of Champagne was waiting, and our dinner included a bottle of wine and three courses.
I started with excellent smoked salmon, herby crème fraîche, and vegetables.
My main course was crispy sea bass with potatoes and an eggplant dish that reminded me of ratatouille.
After the main course, we went up to the top deck just as golden hour was happening.
Seeing the Eiffel Tower from the river in that light was one of my favorite moments.
We also passed Paris’s smaller Statue of Liberty, which made me laugh.
Back inside, dessert was lemon cheesecake with a little limoncello shot on the side! If you want a special dinner in Paris that also lets you see the city from the water, I loved this experience.
A White Lotus Nightcap at Bar Joséphine
After the cruise, we headed back into Saint-Germain to the Mandarin Oriental Lutetia, the filming location for season four of White Lotus. I was so excited to see it in person and take photos that I can compare with the show when the season comes out.
The hotel is stunning, all the way down to the bathroom!
We stopped at Bar Joséphine for drinks.
I ordered the All’Una e Trentacinque, which the menu described as a smoky, aromatic cocktail made with Mezcal Madre, Cynar, Campari, fig, and citrus. It was a fancy mezcal Negroni! Even the ice cube had a beautiful imprint inside it. At €28 it was a splurge, but I loved both the drink and the atmosphere.
Note that getting an Uber in Paris was much more challenging than I thought it would be. It was harder to get matched with a driver, and I found there were taxis everywhere. I think the taxis may have been a little cheaper too.
Next up: the Louvre and more Paris exploring!
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